Growing Lavender in Santa Cruz County: A Complete Guide
Lavender belongs in Santa Cruz County gardens. This Mediterranean native is adapted to exactly our climate pattern: wet winters and dry summers. Once established, lavender needs almost no irrigation, shrugs off drought, and produces those iconic purple flower spikes that draw bees, butterflies, and humans alike.
But lavender isn't foolproof here. Coastal fog, heavy clay soil, and overwatering kill more lavender plants than any pest or disease. Success depends on understanding what lavender needs (excellent drainage, full sun, lean soil) and providing it from the start.
Get the basics right, and lavender rewards you for years. A well-sited plant can live 15 to 20 years, producing abundant blooms for cutting, cooking, and crafting while requiring almost nothing from you in return.
Understanding Lavender
A Mediterranean Native
Lavender (Lavandula species) evolved in the rocky, sun-baked hillsides of the Mediterranean region. Its native habitat features hot, dry summers, mild wet winters, and poor, sharply draining soil, often limestone-based.
This origin story tells you everything about what lavender needs: full sun, excellent drainage, no summer water once established, and soil that's lean rather than rich. Heavy clay, shade, and regular irrigation are the opposite of what lavender evolved with, which is why they cause problems.
Growth Habit
Most garden lavenders form rounded shrubs 1 to 3 feet tall and wide, though size varies significantly by species and variety. The aromatic gray-green foliage is evergreen, providing year-round structure. Flower spikes appear in late spring through summer, attracting an impressive array of pollinators.
Lavender is technically a subshrub, with woody stems at the base and softer growth above. Understanding this growth pattern is important for pruning. Unlike herbaceous perennials that can be cut to the ground, lavender doesn't regenerate well from old wood.
Lifespan
Well-grown lavender can live 15 to 20 years in appropriate conditions. However, plants decline faster in heavy soil, humid climates, or when pruning is neglected. Most lavender deaths in Santa Cruz County happen within the first year or two, usually from overwatering or poor drainage. Plants that survive establishment typically live many years.
Choosing Lavender Varieties for Santa Cruz County
Not all lavenders perform equally well here. Choosing varieties suited to your specific microclimate makes a significant difference.
English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)
The classic lavender, prized for fragrance and culinary use. Compact growth to 2 to 3 feet. The most cold-hardy type, tolerating temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
English lavender performs best in inland areas of Santa Cruz County with less summer fog. In coastal areas, it can struggle with humidity and may develop fungal problems.
Recommended varieties:
'Hidcote': Deep purple flowers, compact growth to 18 inches. One of the most popular varieties for good reason. Excellent for edging and containers.
'Munstead': Slightly larger than Hidcote with lighter purple blooms. Blooms early. Named for Gertrude Jekyll's garden at Munstead Wood.
'Provence': Tall flower spikes to 3 feet on a 2-foot plant. Excellent for cutting. The variety most commonly grown for commercial lavender oil.
'Royal Velvet': Deep violet-blue flowers, considered one of the most intensely colored. Compact growth.
Lavandins (Lavandula x intermedia)
Hybrids between English lavender and spike lavender, lavandins are typically larger, more vigorous, and more heat-tolerant than pure English lavender. They handle coastal conditions better than English types.
Recommended varieties:
'Grosso': The workhorse of commercial lavender fields. Grows 3 feet tall and wide with long flower spikes. Excellent fragrance. Very heat and drought tolerant.
'Provence' (also sold as 'Phenomenal'): Exceptionally heat and humidity tolerant. Good choice for coastal gardens where English types struggle. Grows 3 to 4 feet.
'Fred Boutin': Gray foliage with pale purple flowers. Large, vigorous plant to 4 feet. Excellent drought tolerance.
Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas)
Distinctive "bunny ear" bracts above the flower heads make Spanish lavender easy to identify. More tolerant of humidity and coastal conditions than English lavender, making it a good choice for foggy areas.
Characteristics:
Blooms earlier than English lavender (often March or April)
Less fragrant than English lavender
Shorter-lived (5 to 7 years typically)
Better suited to coastal Santa Cruz County
Recommended varieties:
'Otto Quast': Deep purple bracts, vigorous growth. One of the best performers in coastal California.
'Kew Red': Crimson-topped bracts, unusual color for lavender.
'Anouk': Compact, early blooming, dark purple. Good for containers.
French Lavender (Lavandula dentata)
Features toothed (dentate) leaves and blooms nearly year-round in mild climates. More tolerant of humidity than English lavender but less cold-hardy.
Good choice for coastal areas where it blooms almost continuously. Growth to 3 feet. Slightly less fragrant than English lavender but makes up for it with extended bloom time.
Recommendations by Microclimate
Coastal areas (Aptos, Capitola, Live Oak, Santa Cruz):
Spanish lavender (L. stoechas varieties) performs most reliably
French lavender (L. dentata) for year-round bloom
Lavandins for larger plantings
English lavender can work in the sunniest, most protected spots
Inland and sunny areas (Scotts Valley, Boulder Creek ridges, Watsonville):
English lavender thrives with adequate drainage
Lavandins for larger landscape plantings
Spanish lavender for early season color
All types generally successful
Under redwoods and shaded areas:
Lavender is not recommended. The combination of shade and humidity is the opposite of what lavender needs. Consider other Mediterranean herbs like rosemary or sage for these conditions.
Site Selection and Soil Preparation
More lavender plants die from poor site selection than any other cause. Getting this right matters.
Sunlight
Full sun means full sun: at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Lavender in partial shade grows leggy, blooms poorly, and is more susceptible to disease.
In coastal areas where fog reduces effective sunlight, choose the sunniest spot available. South-facing slopes, spots against south-facing walls, and elevated positions that rise above fog all help.
Drainage
Excellent drainage is non-negotiable. Lavender roots sitting in wet soil develop root rot and die, often within weeks.
Signs of poor drainage:
Water puddles after rain and takes hours to drain
Soil stays wet days after watering
Clay soil that compacts and cracks when dry
Improving drainage:
Raised beds: The most reliable solution for heavy soil. Build beds at least 12 inches high and fill with a fast-draining mix (50% quality garden soil, 25% coarse sand or perlite, 25% compost).
Mounds: Plant lavender on raised mounds 6 to 12 inches high if raised beds aren't practical.
Soil amendment: For moderately heavy soil, incorporate several inches of coarse sand, perlite, or pumice into the planting area. This is less effective than raised beds but helps in borderline situations.
Slope planting: Hillsides naturally drain better than flat ground. Take advantage of slopes for lavender plantings.
Soil Fertility
Lavender prefers lean soil. Rich, heavily amended soil produces excessive leafy growth at the expense of flowers and concentrates essential oils, and can shorten plant lifespan.
Don't add fertilizer at planting or after establishment. Skip the compost too, or use only a thin layer. If your native soil is poor and rocky, that's actually ideal for lavender.
pH
Lavender prefers slightly alkaline soil (pH 6.5 to 7.5). Most Santa Cruz County soils are slightly acidic. You don't need to drastically alter pH, but avoid planting lavender in very acidic soil under redwoods without amendment.
If soil is quite acidic, incorporate some dolomite lime before planting according to package directions.
Planting Lavender
When to Plant
Fall (October through November): The best time. Plants establish roots during cool, wet months and enter their first summer with stronger root systems. Winter rains provide most of the water.
Spring (March through April): Acceptable but requires more attention to watering through the first summer.
Avoid summer planting unless you can provide careful attention to watering during establishment.
How to Plant
Choose healthy plants: Look for compact growth with gray-green foliage. Avoid plants with yellowing leaves, leggy growth, or circling roots.
Prepare the hole: Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Lavender should be planted at the same depth it was in the pot, or even slightly higher if drainage is questionable.
Don't amend the backfill: Use native soil (or your raised bed mix) without adding compost or fertilizer to the planting hole.
Remove the plant from its pot: Gently loosen any circling roots. If the plant is severely rootbound, make several vertical cuts in the root ball.
Position and backfill: Set the plant so the root crown is at or slightly above soil level. Backfill, firming gently to eliminate air pockets.
Water thoroughly: Soak the root zone after planting to settle soil around roots.
Mulch sparingly: A thin layer (1 inch) of gravel or decomposed granite around the plant helps keep the crown dry. Avoid organic mulches like bark or straw close to the crown, as they hold moisture and can promote rot.
Spacing
Space plants according to their mature size, typically 2 to 3 feet apart for most varieties. Crowded plants have poor air circulation, which promotes fungal problems, especially in coastal areas.
For lavender hedges, space plants slightly closer (18 to 24 inches) and accept that plants will grow together into a continuous mass.
Watering
Establishment Period (First Year)
New lavender plants need regular water while establishing roots. Water weekly during dry weather for the first growing season. The goal is to keep roots moist but not soggy.
Signs of underwatering during establishment: Wilting, especially in afternoon. Gray-green foliage turning gray-brown. Slow growth.
Signs of overwatering: Yellowing foliage. Root rot (plant collapses suddenly). Fungal problems on stems.
After Establishment
Once established (after the first full year), lavender needs minimal supplemental water. In fact, overwatering established lavender is the surest way to kill it.
Inland areas: Most established lavender needs no summer irrigation. Plants may appreciate one deep watering per month during extended dry spells, but many thrive with no supplemental water at all.
Coastal areas: Summer fog provides moisture. Established lavender typically needs no irrigation. If anything, coastal gardeners need to worry about too much moisture rather than too little.
Container lavender: Needs more frequent watering than in-ground plants. Allow soil to dry between waterings. Ensure excellent drainage.
Winter
No irrigation needed during the rainy season. Lavender's Mediterranean origins mean it expects wet winters and is adapted to handle them, as long as drainage is good.
Pruning: Essential for Longevity
Regular pruning is the difference between lavender that lives 5 years and lavender that lives 20. Pruning keeps plants compact, prevents woody legginess, and promotes vigorous new growth.
When to Prune
Primary pruning: After bloom (typically late summer or early fall for most varieties). This is the main annual pruning.
Light cleanup: Early spring (March). Remove any winter damage and shape plants lightly before new growth begins.
How to Prune
Rule 1: Never cut into old, bare wood. Unlike many shrubs, lavender doesn't regenerate from old woody stems. If you cut below the foliage into bare wood, that stem won't resprout.
Rule 2: Always leave green foliage on every stem you want to keep.
Technique:
After bloom finishes, cut plants back by about one-third to one-half of their height. Make cuts just above where you can see green foliage. The result should be a compact dome of gray-green leaves with no flowers or spent stems.
For plants that have gotten leggy or woody at the base, you can prune more aggressively, but always stop where you see green. If there's bare wood with no foliage for a foot above the ground, you can't rejuvenate it with pruning. It's time to replace the plant.
Pruning Neglected Plants
If you inherit a neglected, woody lavender, assess whether it's worth saving. Plants with healthy green growth on the outer edges can often be improved with aggressive (but not into bare wood) pruning. Plants that are mostly bare stems with tufts of foliage at the tips are usually past saving.
Start fresh with a new plant rather than fighting with a badly neglected specimen.
Harvesting Lavender
One of lavender's great pleasures is harvesting those fragrant flower spikes for fresh use, drying, or crafting.
When to Harvest
For maximum fragrance and oil content, harvest when about half the flowers on a spike have opened. Early morning is ideal, after dew has dried but before the heat of the day.
For fresh bouquets, harvest at any stage you find attractive.
How to Harvest
Cut stems long, reaching down into the foliage. This serves double duty: you get longer stems for arrangements, and you're pruning the plant at the same time.
Use sharp scissors or pruning shears. Bundle stems immediately if drying.
Drying Lavender
Gather 20 to 30 stems into a bundle. Secure with a rubber band (which will tighten as stems dry and shrink).
Hang bundles upside down in a warm, dry, dark location with good air circulation. A garage, attic, or closet works well. Avoid humid areas.
Drying takes 2 to 4 weeks depending on humidity. Lavender is dry when stems snap rather than bend.
Using Lavender
Culinary: English lavender varieties are best for cooking. Use sparingly; the flavor is intense. Excellent in baked goods, herb blends (herbes de Provence), and infused into honey or sugar.
Sachets and potpourri: Strip dried flowers from stems. Use in sachets for drawers and closets, or mix with other dried flowers and herbs.
Fresh arrangements: Lavender lasts well in vases. Combine with roses, other herbs, or display alone.
Essential oil: Commercial extraction requires large quantities and specialized equipment, but you can make lavender-infused oils by steeping dried flowers in carrier oil.
Common Problems
Root Rot
Symptoms: Plant suddenly wilts and dies, or foliage yellows and declines over weeks. Roots are brown or black rather than white when examined.
Cause: Overwatering or poor drainage. The fungi that cause root rot thrive in wet soil.
Prevention: Excellent drainage. Allow soil to dry between waterings. Raised beds in heavy soil.
Treatment: There's no cure once root rot is established. Remove dead plants. Improve drainage before replanting.
Woody, Leggy Growth
Cause: Lack of annual pruning. As plants age without pruning, they develop bare woody stems with foliage only at the tips.
Prevention: Prune annually after bloom.
Treatment: If plants still have some green growth, prune back to where foliage exists. Severely woody plants are usually best replaced.
Poor Flowering
Causes: Too much shade. Overly rich soil or excessive nitrogen. Planting too deep.
Solutions: Move to sunnier location. Stop fertilizing. Ensure crown is at or above soil level.
Foliage Problems in Coastal Areas
Spanish lavender and lavandins tolerate coastal humidity better than English lavender. If you're struggling with lavender in foggy areas, try switching to more tolerant varieties.
Ensure good air circulation by spacing plants adequately and choosing sites with some air movement.
Pests
Lavender is remarkably pest-free. Its aromatic oils repel most insects.
Spittlebugs: Occasionally found in spring. The frothy "spit" protects nymphs. Not damaging; ignore or wash off with water.
Deer: Generally avoided due to aromatic oils. One of the better choices for deer-prone gardens.
Local Resources
Where to Buy Lavender
Sierra Azul Nursery (2660 E. Lake Avenue, Watsonville) carries California natives and Mediterranean plants including lavender varieties suited to local conditions.
Dig Gardens (420 Water Street, Santa Cruz and 7765 Soquel Drive, Aptos) stocks lavender and other drought-tolerant plants.
San Lorenzo Garden Center (808 River Street, Santa Cruz) has seasonal lavender selection.
For specialty varieties, Mountain Valley Growers ships lavender plants throughout California.
Lavender Farms and Inspiration
While not in Santa Cruz County, the Carmel Valley and Paso Robles regions have commercial lavender farms worth visiting for inspiration. Purple Haze Lavender Farm in Sequim, Washington offers extensive online resources about lavender varieties and growing.
Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Lavender
Why did my lavender die over winter?
Winter death is usually from root rot rather than cold damage. Santa Cruz County winters rarely get cold enough to kill lavender, but the combination of wet soil and poor drainage kills roots. If your lavender didn't survive winter, improve drainage before replanting. Consider raised beds or mounded planting.
Can I grow lavender from seed?
Technically yes, but it's slow and often produces variable plants. Seeds can take weeks to germinate and plants several years to reach blooming size. Starting from nursery transplants or propagating from cuttings is much more reliable and produces blooming plants faster.
How do I propagate lavender from cuttings?
Take 4 to 6 inch cuttings from healthy stems in late spring or early summer. Remove lower leaves, dip in rooting hormone (optional but helpful), and insert in well-draining potting mix. Keep moist but not wet. Cuttings root in 3 to 6 weeks. Harden off before planting out.
Which lavender is best for cooking?
English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) varieties have the sweetest flavor best suited for culinary use. 'Provence,' 'Munstead,' and 'Hidcote' are popular culinary varieties. Lavandins have more camphor notes and are better for sachets than cooking. Spanish lavender is not typically used in cooking.
How long does lavender live?
With proper conditions and regular pruning, lavender can live 15 to 20 years. Spanish lavender is typically shorter-lived (5 to 7 years). Plants in poor drainage, excessive shade, or without annual pruning decline faster. Most lavender deaths occur in the first year or two from establishment problems.
Can I grow lavender in a container?
Yes, lavender grows well in containers with excellent drainage. Use a quality potting mix with added perlite, choose a pot at least 12 inches in diameter, and ensure drainage holes are unobstructed. Container lavender needs more frequent watering than in-ground plants but should still dry out between waterings. Move containers to protected locations during heavy winter rains.
My lavender is getting woody and bare at the base. Can I save it?
Only if there's still green growth above the bare section. Prune back to just above where you see foliage, never into bare wood. Severely woody plants won't regenerate from old stems and are usually best replaced. Prevent this problem by pruning annually after bloom.
Why isn't my lavender blooming?
Common causes: too much shade (needs 6 to 8 hours direct sun), too much nitrogen (stop fertilizing), planted too deep (crown should be at or above soil level), or simply too young (some plants need a year to establish before blooming well). Spanish lavender blooms earlier than English types, so variety matters too.
Free Gardening Resources
Getting Started
Beginner Garden Setup Checklist — Complete setup guide to start your garden right.
Know Your Microclimate Worksheet — Understand your local conditions before planting.
Seed Starting Guide — Step-by-step instructions for starting seeds indoors and out.
Planning & Timing
Seasonal Planting Calendar — Avoid timing mistakes with month-by-month guidance.
Vegetables by Season Chart — Quick reference for what to plant and when in Santa Cruz County.
Seasonal Garden Tasks Checklist — Stay on track with monthly garden maintenance tasks.
Growing Guides
Companion Planting Guide — Learn which plants grow better together and which to keep apart.
Tomato Variety Selector — Find the best tomato varieties for your Santa Cruz microclimate.
Problem Solving
Garden Troubleshooting Guide — Diagnose common problems before they become disasters.
Gopher Control Guide — Humane and effective strategies for managing gophers in your garden.
Santa Cruz-Specific Guides
Water-Wise Gardening Guide — Conserve water while keeping your garden thriving through dry seasons.
Fire-Wise Gardening Guide — Create defensible space with beautiful, fire-resistant landscaping.
A Garden Staple
Lavender earns its place in Santa Cruz County gardens through beauty, fragrance, and near-independence once established. It's the rare plant that thrives on neglect in our climate: no fertilizer, minimal water, just sun and sharp drainage.
Plant it where you'll brush past and release its scent, near pathways or entry points. Position it where you can watch the bees work the flower spikes on summer mornings. Harvest handfuls for drying, bring bouquets indoors, and infuse the flavor into summer cooking.
The only real effort comes at planting time: site selection and soil preparation. Get those right, prune once a year, and lavender rewards you for a decade or two.
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