Growing Cilantro in Santa Cruz: Beat the Bolt for Longer Harvests

Few herbs inspire as much frustration as cilantro. You plant it with visions of fresh salsa, Thai curries, and fragrant garnishes. Two weeks later, it's a spindly tower of white flowers with barely a usable leaf in sight. The bolting happens so fast that many gardeners give up entirely, resigning themselves to those sad plastic clamshells from the grocery store.

But here's what most gardening guides won't tell you: cilantro's bolting tendency is actually manageable in Santa Cruz County. Our long, mild cool season provides months of ideal cilantro-growing conditions. While gardeners in hot climates fight a losing battle against summer bolting, we can grow cilantro through fall, winter, and spring with relative ease. The trick is understanding what triggers bolting and using that knowledge to extend your harvest.

This guide covers the timing, varieties, and techniques that keep Santa Cruz County gardeners in fresh cilantro nearly year-round. Once you master the bolt, cilantro becomes one of the most rewarding herbs in the garden.

Why Cilantro Bolts (And How to Slow It Down)

Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) is an annual herb that's genetically programmed to flower and set seed as quickly as possible. From the plant's perspective, leaves are just a means to an end. The real goal is producing coriander seeds to ensure the next generation. Understanding what triggers this transition from leaf production to flowering helps you delay it.

Day length is the primary trigger. Cilantro is sensitive to photoperiod (the length of daylight). As days lengthen past about 12 hours, cilantro receives the signal to bolt. This is why spring-planted cilantro races to flower while fall-planted cilantro grows contentedly for months. In Santa Cruz County, days exceed 12 hours from mid-March through late September. This is your challenging window. From late September through mid-March, shorter days keep cilantro in vegetative mode.

Temperature accelerates bolting. Warm weather (above 75°F) speeds up the bolting process, especially when combined with lengthening days. Cool weather slows it down. Our coastal fog and mild temperatures give us an advantage over inland California gardeners, but warm spells in late spring still trigger rapid bolting.

Root stress triggers bolting. Cilantro has a delicate taproot that resents disturbance. Transplant shock, drought stress, or root damage from cultivation can all push cilantro to bolt prematurely. This is why direct sowing is so much more successful than transplanting.

Genetics matter. Some cilantro varieties are bred to resist bolting longer than others. Standard cilantro bolts at the slightest provocation. Slow-bolt varieties buy you extra weeks of harvest under the same conditions.

What you can control: variety selection, planting timing, consistent moisture, avoiding root disturbance, and succession planting. What you can't control: day length and seasonal temperature trends. Work with nature rather than against it.

The Best Times to Plant Cilantro in Santa Cruz County

Timing is everything with cilantro. Plant at the right time, and you'll harvest for months. Plant at the wrong time, and you'll harvest for days.

Prime Season: Fall Through Early Spring (September through February)

This is cilantro's sweet spot in Santa Cruz County. Shortening days (fall) or still-short days (winter and early spring) keep plants in leaf-production mode. Cool temperatures slow growth slightly but also slow bolting dramatically.

September plantings establish before winter and grow steadily through fall. These plants provide harvests from October through February or even March before lengthening days trigger bolting.

October through December plantings grow more slowly in cooler weather but remain productive through winter and into spring. Successive plantings through fall ensure continuous harvest.

January and February plantings catch the tail end of short days. They grow through late winter and early spring, bolting in April or May as days lengthen. This extends your harvest season but requires attention since warming weather arrives quickly.

Challenging Season: Late Spring Through Summer (April through August)

Lengthening days and warming temperatures make this period difficult for cilantro. Plants bolt rapidly, often within 3-4 weeks of germination. However, you have some options.

Slow-bolt varieties extend the harvest window by 2-3 weeks compared to standard cilantro. They won't prevent bolting entirely, but they buy you time.

Afternoon shade helps in late spring. Planting where buildings, fences, or trees block the hot afternoon sun keeps temperatures cooler and may delay bolting slightly.

Coastal microclimates have an advantage. Gardens in Aptos, Capitola, and foggy parts of Santa Cruz experience cooler summer temperatures that somewhat delay bolting. Experiment with spring and early summer plantings if you have a particularly cool, foggy location.

Succession planting every 2 weeks ensures some cilantro is always in the usable stage, even if individual plantings bolt quickly. Accept that summer cilantro has a short productive window and plan accordingly.

Accept the coriander. When cilantro bolts in summer, let it go to seed. Fresh green coriander seeds have excellent flavor for cooking, and dried coriander seeds are useful spices. Summer can be your coriander harvest season while you wait for fall cilantro planting.

Succession Planting Schedule

For year-round cilantro, follow this approximate schedule (adjust based on your specific microclimate):

September: First fall planting. Use standard or slow-bolt varieties.

October: Second fall planting for extended harvest.

November: Third fall planting. Growth slows but plants establish before winter.

December-January: Optional winter planting. Growth is slow but plants are extremely bolt-resistant.

February: Late winter planting for spring harvest.

March: Last reliable planting before bolting becomes rapid. Use slow-bolt varieties.

April-August: Succession plant every 2 weeks with slow-bolt varieties. Accept rapid bolting and short harvest windows.

This schedule keeps fresh cilantro available nearly year-round, though summer harvests require more effort and yield less than cool-season harvests.

Choosing Cilantro Varieties

Variety selection significantly impacts your cilantro success. Standard cilantro bolts almost immediately under stress. Slow-bolt varieties provide meaningfully longer harvests.

Slow-Bolt Varieties (Highly Recommended)

Santo is the most widely available slow-bolt cilantro and performs excellently in Santa Cruz County. It produces abundant foliage and resists bolting significantly longer than standard varieties. If you can only find one slow-bolt variety, Santo is an excellent choice.

Calypso is bred specifically for extended leaf production. It's one of the slowest bolting varieties available, often lasting 2-3 weeks longer than standard cilantro under the same conditions. The leaves are large and flavorful. Highly recommended for Santa Cruz gardens.

Leisure is another excellent slow-bolt selection with large, dark green leaves. It tolerates heat better than most varieties, making it useful for late spring and summer plantings.

Slow Bolt (sold under this generic name by various seed companies) varies in performance depending on the source. It's generally better than standard cilantro but may not match named slow-bolt varieties like Calypso or Santo.

Caribe produces abundant foliage and shows good bolt resistance. It's less commonly available than Santo but worth seeking out.

Standard Varieties (For Coriander Seed)

Coriander or generic "cilantro" without a variety name bolts quickly. This is actually desirable if your goal is coriander seed production. Standard varieties reach seed-production stage faster than slow-bolt types.

If you want both cilantro leaves and coriander seeds, grow slow-bolt varieties for leaves and let some bolt for seed, or plant standard varieties specifically for seed production.

Specialty Types

Vietnamese cilantro (Persicaria odorata) isn't true cilantro but provides similar flavor and is far more heat-tolerant. It thrives in warm, moist conditions where regular cilantro fails. Vietnamese cilantro is a perennial in Santa Cruz County, providing year-round harvests without bolting concerns. The flavor is slightly different from true cilantro but works well in Southeast Asian dishes. Consider growing it as a summer cilantro substitute.

Culantro (Eryngium foetidum) is another cilantro relative with similar (but stronger) flavor. It's more heat-tolerant than cilantro and grows as a short-lived perennial in mild climates. The leaves are long and serrated, quite different from cilantro's feathery foliage. Culantro is traditional in Caribbean and Latin American cooking. It may fill the cilantro gap during summer months.

For most Santa Cruz County gardeners, slow-bolt varieties like Santo or Calypso are the best choice for reliable cilantro production. Add Vietnamese cilantro or culantro for summer alternatives if you cook cuisines that use cilantro heavily.

How to Plant Cilantro

Cilantro grows best from direct-sown seed. Transplanting is possible but often triggers early bolting due to root disturbance. Here's how to plant successfully.

Direct Sowing (Recommended)

Prepare the planting area by loosening soil and removing weeds. Cilantro tolerates various soil types but appreciates decent drainage. Add a moderate amount of compost to improve fertility and moisture retention. Unlike drought-tolerant Mediterranean herbs, cilantro benefits from reasonably rich soil.

Consider crushing seeds before planting. Cilantro seeds are actually fruits containing two seeds each. Gently crushing the round seeds (place in a plastic bag and press with a rolling pin) separates them and improves germination rates. This step is optional but helpful.

Sow seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Cilantro seeds need darkness to germinate, so cover them adequately, unlike dill which needs light.

Space seeds 1-2 inches apart in rows 6-12 inches apart, or broadcast seeds in a block and thin later. Cilantro looks best planted in clusters or drifts rather than single-file rows.

Keep soil consistently moist until germination, which takes 7-14 days. Cilantro germination can be slow and erratic, so be patient. Don't let soil dry out during this period.

Thin seedlings to 4-6 inches apart when they're a few inches tall. Use thinnings in the kitchen (they're delicious). Crowded cilantro bolts faster and produces less usable foliage.

Succession plant every 2-3 weeks during the growing season for continuous harvest. Mark your calendar or set phone reminders.

Transplanting (If Necessary)

If you must transplant cilantro (starting indoors for an early start, or buying nursery transplants), handle with extreme care.

Use small seedlings only. Transplant when seedlings have just 2-3 true leaves. Older transplants with developed taproots suffer more from disturbance.

Use biodegradable pots (peat pots, cow pots, soil blocks) that go directly into the ground without removing the seedling. This minimizes root disturbance.

Water deeply after transplanting and keep soil consistently moist for the first week.

Expect faster bolting than direct-sown plants. Even carefully transplanted cilantro typically bolts sooner due to root stress. Accept this limitation if transplanting is your only option.

Container Growing

Cilantro grows reasonably well in containers, which offers flexibility for small-space gardens and patios.

Container depth matters. Cilantro's taproot needs room to develop. Use containers at least 8-10 inches deep, preferably 12 inches. Shallow containers stress roots and trigger early bolting.

Container width determines yield. Wide containers (12+ inches diameter) allow multiple plants or successive sowings. A large pot can provide ongoing cilantro harvests with careful management.

Keep containers consistently moist. Container soil dries faster than garden beds, and drought stress triggers bolting. Check moisture daily in warm weather.

Position containers strategically. In late spring and summer, place containers where they receive morning sun and afternoon shade. In fall and winter, full sun is fine.

Succession sow in the same container. As older plants bolt, pull them and sow fresh seeds in the same pot. This keeps one container productive year-round with minimal space.

Site Selection

Full sun to partial shade: Cilantro grows well in full sun during the cool season. As weather warms (late spring onward), afternoon shade helps delay bolting. A spot with morning sun and afternoon shade extends the harvest window.

Consistent moisture: Choose a location where you can water easily. Cilantro near a hose bib or irrigation line gets the consistent moisture it needs.

Protection from wind: Strong wind dries plants and soil quickly, stressing cilantro. A somewhat sheltered location reduces moisture loss.

Near the kitchen: Cilantro is most useful when convenient to harvest. A quick snip before dinner adds fresh flavor to countless dishes.

Caring for Cilantro

Cilantro requires more attention than drought-tolerant Mediterranean herbs but is still straightforward to grow. Here's how to keep plants healthy and productive.

Watering

Consistent moisture is essential. Cilantro's native habitat includes moist areas, and drought stress triggers bolting. Keep soil evenly moist (not waterlogged) throughout the growing season.

Check soil moisture regularly. Insert your finger an inch into the soil. If dry at that depth, water thoroughly.

Mulch helps retain moisture. A thin layer of organic mulch (straw, leaves, fine bark) around cilantro plants reduces evaporation and keeps roots cool. This is particularly helpful as weather warms in spring.

Water at soil level when possible. Wet foliage, especially in cool weather, can encourage fungal diseases. Drip irrigation or careful hand watering keeps leaves dry.

Don't let containers dry out. Container cilantro needs daily attention in warm weather. Consider self-watering containers or grouping pots for easier monitoring.

Fertilizing

Cilantro benefits from moderate fertility but doesn't need heavy feeding.

At planting, work compost into the soil. This provides sufficient nutrition for most plantings.

Mid-season feeding with diluted liquid fertilizer (every 3-4 weeks) supports successive harvests from long-growing plants. Don't overdo it; excessive nitrogen produces lush growth that may be more susceptible to pests and disease.

Container plants deplete nutrients faster. Feed container cilantro with liquid fertilizer every 2-3 weeks.

Managing the Inevitable Bolt

Despite your best efforts, cilantro eventually bolts. Here's how to handle it.

Harvest heavily at the first sign of bolting. When you see the central stem elongating and leaf shape changing (leaves become more finely divided and feathery), harvest all usable foliage immediately. This is your last leaf harvest from that planting.

Let some plants go to seed. Bolting cilantro is valuable for coriander seed production and for attracting beneficial insects. The flowers draw parasitic wasps, lacewings, and other predatory insects that help control garden pests.

Harvest green coriander seeds for cooking. Fresh green seeds (before they dry) have complex flavor excellent in curries, salsas, and marinades. Harvest when seeds are full-sized but still green.

Collect dry coriander seeds for spice and saving. Allow seed heads to dry on the plant until seeds are brown and loose. Cut heads and shake seeds into a paper bag. Dried coriander is essential in many spice blends.

Allow some self-seeding. Cilantro self-seeds readily. If you let seeds drop naturally, volunteer plants appear in subsequent seasons. These volunteers often germinate at ideal times for your microclimate. Thin and transplant (carefully) as needed.

Pull bolted plants once seed harvest is complete (or if you don't want seeds). Clear the space for new plantings.

Pest and Disease Issues

Cilantro is relatively trouble-free, but a few problems may appear.

Aphids sometimes cluster on new growth, especially in spring. A strong spray of water knocks them off. For persistent infestations, insecticidal soap is effective. Aphids often appear just as plants are about to bolt anyway, so the damage may be minimal.

Leaf spot (bacterial or fungal) causes dark spots on foliage. It's more common in humid conditions with poor air circulation. Remove affected leaves, improve airflow, and avoid overhead watering. Most leaf spot is cosmetic and doesn't seriously harm plants.

Powdery mildew (white powdery coating on leaves) occasionally appears in humid weather. Improve air circulation and avoid crowding. Remove affected leaves.

Bolting itself is often mistaken for a disease or pest problem. When cilantro suddenly shoots up a tall central stem with feathery foliage and flowers, that's bolting, not a disease. It's a natural part of the plant's life cycle, just an inconvenient one for gardeners who want leaves.

Harvesting Cilantro

Knowing when and how to harvest maximizes your cilantro yield.

Harvesting Leaves

Begin harvesting when plants have at least 6-8 mature leaves, typically 3-4 weeks after germination for vigorous growth. Don't wait too long; young cilantro has the best flavor.

Harvest in the morning after dew dries but before midday heat. Essential oils are most concentrated in morning hours.

Cut outer leaves first, leaving the center of the plant to continue growing. This extends harvest from individual plants.

Alternatively, cut entire plants just above the lowest leaves. The plant may regrow from the base for a second (smaller) harvest. This works better in cool weather when regrowth is faster.

Harvest stems and leaves together. Unlike some herbs where only leaves are used, cilantro stems are flavorful and usable. The stems have a slightly more intense flavor than leaves.

Harvest before bolting for best flavor. Once the central flower stalk appears, leaves become sparser and develop a stronger, sometimes bitter taste. Harvest everything usable at the first sign of bolting.

Harvesting Roots

Cilantro roots are edible and prized in Thai and other Southeast Asian cuisines. The flavor is intense, like concentrated cilantro with earthy notes.

To harvest roots, pull entire plants and wash thoroughly. Chop roots for curry pastes, soups, and marinades. The roots keep refrigerated for about a week.

Grow extra plants specifically for root harvest if you enjoy this ingredient. Root harvest destroys the plant, so you can't harvest both leaves long-term and roots from the same plants.

Harvesting Seeds (Coriander)

Green coriander (fresh seeds) can be harvested when seeds are full-sized but still green, about 2-3 weeks after flowering. The flavor is bright and citrusy. Use immediately or freeze.

Dry coriander is harvested when seeds turn brown and dry on the plant, about 3-4 weeks after flowering. Cut seed heads, place upside down in paper bags, and let dry completely. Store in airtight containers.

Preserving Cilantro

Fresh cilantro is best used immediately but doesn't store as well as hardier herbs. Here are your preservation options.

Refrigerator Storage

For short-term storage (up to 2 weeks), treat cilantro like cut flowers.

Trim stem ends and place stems in a glass of water. Cover loosely with a plastic bag and refrigerate. Change water every few days.

Alternatively, wrap cilantro loosely in damp paper towels, place in a plastic bag, and refrigerate in the crisper drawer.

Freezing (Best for Flavor)

Freezing preserves cilantro's flavor better than drying, though texture suffers (fine for cooking, not garnishing).

Ice cube method: Chop cilantro (leaves and stems) and pack into ice cube trays. Cover with water or olive oil and freeze. Transfer cubes to freezer bags. Drop cubes directly into cooking.

Purée method: Blend cilantro with a small amount of oil (olive or neutral) to form a paste. Freeze in ice cube trays or spread thin on parchment-lined baking sheets and break into pieces once frozen.

Flash freezing: Spread clean, dry cilantro on a baking sheet and freeze until solid. Transfer to freezer bags. Frozen leaves crumble directly into dishes.

Cilantro Paste/Pesto

Blending cilantro with oil creates a versatile paste for cooking.

Basic cilantro paste: Blend cilantro (leaves, stems, and optionally roots) with enough olive or neutral oil to form a paste. Add garlic, lime juice, and salt if desired. Store in jars with a thin oil layer on top. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks or freeze for months.

Cilantro pesto: Blend cilantro with pepitas or cashews, garlic, lime juice, oil, and salt. Use on pasta, as a sandwich spread, or as a sauce for grilled meats and vegetables.

Drying (Not Recommended)

Dried cilantro loses most of its characteristic flavor. The volatile oils that make cilantro distinctive dissipate during drying. If you must dry cilantro, use a dehydrator on the lowest setting and accept that the result will be a pale shadow of fresh. Honestly, freezing is so much better that drying isn't worth the effort.

Companion Planting with Cilantro

Cilantro affects neighboring plants and benefits from thoughtful placement.

Good Companions

Tomatoes, peppers, and other nightshades benefit from cilantro's ability to attract beneficial insects. When cilantro flowers, it draws parasitic wasps, ladybugs, lacewings, and hoverflies that prey on common nightshade pests.

Leafy greens (lettuce, spinach, arugula) share similar growing conditions with cilantro. They make good bed companions during the cool season.

Beans and peas tolerate cilantro nearby without issues.

Anise, dill, and other carrot-family herbs grow in similar conditions, though be aware of potential cross-pollination if you save seeds (doesn't affect flavor of current-season plants).

Companions to Avoid

Fennel inhibits growth of many nearby plants, including cilantro. Keep fennel separate from your main vegetable and herb gardens.

Lavender and other plants requiring dry conditions have opposite water needs from cilantro. Don't plant them together.

Growing Cilantro in Different Santa Cruz Microclimates

Cilantro adapts throughout Santa Cruz County with adjustments for local conditions.

Coastal gardens (Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz, Live Oak): Your cool, foggy conditions are excellent for cilantro. Moderate summer temperatures may even allow spring and summer plantings that would fail inland. Fall and winter cilantro thrives here with minimal bolting pressure. You have the longest cilantro-growing season in the county. Take full advantage with succession plantings.

San Lorenzo Valley (Boulder Creek, Ben Lomond): Sunny exposures warm quickly in spring, triggering bolting earlier than at the coast. Focus on fall through early spring plantings for the longest harvest. Use slow-bolt varieties for late winter and spring plantings. Afternoon shade helps extend spring harvests. Your cooler winter temperatures may slow growth but also slow bolting.

Under the redwoods (Felton, Ben Lomond canyons): Partial shade actually helps cilantro avoid heat stress. As long as plants receive at least 4-6 hours of sun, redwood shade can extend the growing season compared to full-sun locations. The naturally cool, moist conditions suit cilantro well. You may have success with summer plantings in particularly shady, cool spots.

Inland valleys (Scotts Valley, Soquel hills): Standard fall-through-spring timing works well. Spring warms faster here than at the coast, so expect earlier bolting. Use slow-bolt varieties and afternoon shade to extend spring harvests. Summer cilantro is challenging but possible with succession planting.

Pajaro Valley (Watsonville): Your warm, sunny conditions produce fast growth but also trigger early bolting. Focus on fall, winter, and very early spring plantings. Use slow-bolt varieties and afternoon shade. Spring-planted cilantro bolts rapidly here. Consider growing Vietnamese cilantro or culantro as warm-season alternatives.

Where to Buy Cilantro Seeds Locally

Cilantro seeds are widely available. Look for slow-bolt varieties for best results.

Renee's Garden Seeds (based in Felton) offers cilantro including the excellent slow-bolt variety Santo. Their seeds are fresh and perform well locally. Find them at local nurseries or order online at reneesgarden.com.

San Lorenzo Garden Center (808 River Street, Santa Cruz) carries seeds and sometimes cilantro transplants. Ask about slow-bolt varieties.

Mountain Feed & Farm Supply (9550 Highway 9, Ben Lomond) stocks seeds and gardening supplies for San Lorenzo Valley gardeners.

Kitazawa Seed Company (kitazawaseed.com) specializes in Asian vegetables and herbs, including cilantro varieties. A good source for both standard and specialty types.

Johnny's Selected Seeds (johnnyseeds.com) offers Calypso and other slow-bolt varieties. They ship reliably and have excellent variety selection.

Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds (rareseeds.com) carries multiple cilantro varieties including some unusual selections.

For transplants, check farmers markets and local nurseries in spring and fall. Handle transplants gently and use small plants for best results.

Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Cilantro in Santa Cruz

Why does my cilantro bolt so fast?

Cilantro bolts in response to lengthening days (more than about 12 hours) and warm temperatures (above 75°F). If you planted in spring or summer, these conditions triggered rapid flowering. The solution is fall and winter planting when days are short and temperatures are cool. Also use slow-bolt varieties like Santo or Calypso, which resist bolting longer under the same conditions.

When is the best time to plant cilantro in Santa Cruz?

Fall (September through November) is the ideal planting window. Shortening days and cooling temperatures keep cilantro in leaf-production mode for months. Fall-planted cilantro produces through winter and into spring before bolting. You can also plant in late winter (February) for spring harvest, and succession plant through summer with slow-bolt varieties, though summer plantings bolt quickly.

Can I grow cilantro in summer in Santa Cruz?

Summer cilantro is challenging but possible with the right approach. Use slow-bolt varieties, plant in locations with afternoon shade, keep soil consistently moist, and succession plant every 2 weeks. Accept that individual plantings will bolt within 3-4 weeks. Coastal gardens with heavy fog have better success than inland areas. Consider growing Vietnamese cilantro (a different plant with similar flavor) as a heat-tolerant summer alternative.

Should I let cilantro go to seed?

Yes, for several reasons. First, bolting cilantro flowers attract beneficial insects that help control garden pests. Second, you can harvest coriander seeds for cooking (both fresh green seeds and dried). Third, if you allow some seeds to drop naturally, volunteer cilantro plants appear in subsequent seasons. These volunteers often germinate at ideal times for your specific microclimate.

Can I transplant cilantro?

You can, but direct sowing is much more successful. Cilantro has a delicate taproot that resents disturbance. Transplanted cilantro often bolts prematurely due to root stress. If you must transplant, use very small seedlings (2-3 true leaves only), handle root balls carefully, and use biodegradable pots that go directly into the ground. Expect faster bolting than direct-sown plants.

What's the difference between cilantro and coriander?

They're the same plant at different stages. Cilantro refers to the leaves and stems, used fresh in many cuisines. Coriander refers to the seeds, used as a spice either whole or ground. Fresh green coriander seeds (before drying) have excellent flavor for cooking and taste different from both dried coriander and fresh cilantro leaves. All three forms are useful in the kitchen.

Why does cilantro taste like soap to some people?

About 4-14% of people have a genetic variation that makes them perceive cilantro as soapy or unpleasant. This is due to specific olfactory receptor genes that detect aldehyde chemicals in cilantro leaves. If cilantro tastes like soap to you, there's no way to change this perception. You might try using cilantro stems (less intense flavor) or substituting other herbs like Thai basil, culantro, or parsley mixed with lime zest.

How do I keep cilantro from going to seed?

You can delay bolting but not prevent it entirely. Plant during the cool season (fall through early spring), use slow-bolt varieties, provide afternoon shade in warm weather, keep soil consistently moist, avoid root disturbance, and harvest frequently. Even with all these measures, cilantro eventually bolts because it's an annual plant programmed to produce seeds. Succession planting ensures fresh cilantro is always available even as individual plantings bolt.

Can cilantro grow in shade?

Cilantro tolerates partial shade (4-6 hours of sun) and may actually benefit from afternoon shade in warm weather, which delays bolting. In deep shade (less than 4 hours of sun), cilantro becomes sparse and leggy. For Santa Cruz gardens under redwoods, partial shade often works better for cilantro than for full-sun herbs, making it a good choice for somewhat shaded garden areas.

Free Gardening Resources

Getting Started

Beginner Garden Setup Checklist — Complete setup guide to start your garden right.

Know Your Microclimate Worksheet — Understand your local conditions before planting.

Seed Starting Guide — Step-by-step instructions for starting seeds indoors and out.

Planning & Timing

Seasonal Planting Calendar — Avoid timing mistakes with month-by-month guidance.

Vegetables by Season Chart — Quick reference for what to plant and when in Santa Cruz County.

Seasonal Garden Tasks Checklist — Stay on track with monthly garden maintenance tasks.

Growing Guides

Companion Planting Guide — Learn which plants grow better together and which to keep apart.

Tomato Variety Selector — Find the best tomato varieties for your Santa Cruz microclimate.

Problem Solving

Garden Troubleshooting Guide — Diagnose common problems before they become disasters.

Gopher Control Guide — Humane and effective strategies for managing gophers in your garden.

Santa Cruz-Specific Guides

Water-Wise Gardening Guide — Conserve water while keeping your garden thriving through dry seasons.

Fire-Wise Gardening Guide — Create defensible space with beautiful, fire-resistant landscaping.

Master the Cilantro Bolt

Cilantro frustrates gardeners because they fight against its nature rather than working with it. Once you understand that cilantro wants to grow in cool weather and bolt in warm weather, everything becomes easier. Our Santa Cruz County climate, with its long, mild cool season, actually gives us tremendous advantages for cilantro growing. We can harvest fresh cilantro for six months or more while gardeners elsewhere struggle through a few frantic weeks.

Start your cilantro journey in September. Scatter seeds in a sunny spot (or one with afternoon shade if you're planting in spring), keep the soil moist, and watch feathery seedlings emerge within two weeks. By October, you'll be adding fresh cilantro to salsas and curries. By December, you'll still be harvesting while your plants grow contentedly through the cool, short days.

When spring arrives and bolting begins, don't despair. Harvest those last leaves, let some plants flower for the beneficial insects, and collect coriander seeds for your spice cabinet. Then wait for September to start the cycle again, maybe with Calypso this time for even longer harvests.

Fresh cilantro transforms cooking. There's simply no comparison between the vibrant, complex flavor of just-picked leaves and the tired bundles at the grocery store. Once you've experienced real cilantro from your Santa Cruz garden, you'll never go back.