Best Pepper Varieties for Santa Cruz County Microclimates

Peppers growing in Boulder Creek Garden

Pepper success in Santa Cruz County comes down to one critical decision: matching the right variety to your specific location.

A gardener in Watsonville can grow almost any pepper imaginable, from thick-walled bells to fiery habaneros. A gardener in foggy Davenport has far fewer options, but the right choices can still produce impressive harvests. The key is knowing which peppers work where.

This guide organizes pepper recommendations by microclimate, covering sweet peppers, mild cooking peppers, and hot peppers for every growing situation in the county. Find your location, choose your varieties, and skip the frustration of growing peppers that were never going to succeed in your garden.

Understanding Pepper Requirements

Before diving into specific recommendations, it helps to understand what peppers need and why our climate challenges them.

What All Peppers Want

Peppers are tropical plants native to Central and South America. They evolved in warm conditions and carry those preferences into our gardens.

Warmth: Peppers need soil temperatures above 60 degrees F to grow actively, and above 65 degrees F to thrive. They stop growing when temperatures drop below 55 degrees F and suffer damage below 50 degrees F.

Consistent temperatures: Pepper flowers drop without setting fruit when night temperatures fall below 55 degrees F or daytime temperatures exceed 90 degrees F. This "blossom drop" is the most common cause of pepper failure in Santa Cruz County.

Long season: Most peppers need 60-90 days from transplant to harvest, assuming optimal conditions. In cool climates, add 2-4 weeks to seed packet estimates.

Sun: Full sun (6-8+ hours) is essential for fruit production. Peppers tolerate some shade but produce fewer fruits.

Why Santa Cruz County Challenges Peppers

Our Mediterranean climate with cool, foggy summers creates several pepper-growing obstacles.

Cool nights: Coastal and valley areas regularly see summer nights in the low 50s, triggering blossom drop in sensitive varieties.

Fog: Marine layer reduces sun hours and keeps temperatures cool, especially mornings and evenings when peppers would otherwise be growing.

Short warm season: Even our warmest areas have a relatively brief window of consistent heat compared to inland California.

Variable microclimates: Conditions can vary 15-20 degrees F within a few miles, making generic advice useless.

The Good News

Many pepper varieties have been bred for cooler climates or shorter seasons. Others evolved in maritime climates similar to ours. These are the peppers that succeed here, and they're often more interesting than standard grocery store varieties.

Microclimate Quick Reference

Before the detailed recommendations, here's a quick overview of what each microclimate can realistically grow.

Coastal (Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz, Live Oak): Focus on fog-tolerant varieties. Shishitos, padrons, early mini bells, and cool-climate hot peppers like manzano. Full-size bells rarely succeed.

Inland Valleys (Scotts Valley, Soquel): Good pepper growing. Most sweet peppers, Italian frying types, medium-heat hot peppers. Some large bells with good site selection.

Warmest Areas (Watsonville, sunny Boulder Creek): Excellent pepper growing. Nearly any variety succeeds, including long-season bells, superhots, and tropical types.

San Lorenzo Valley - Sunny exposures: Similar to inland valleys. Good variety of peppers possible with full sun.

San Lorenzo Valley - Shaded canyons: Very limited options. Shishitos, padrons, possibly early mini bells. Consider whether peppers are worth the space.

Heavy Fog Zones (Davenport, exposed coast): Most challenging. Shishitos and padrons are most reliable. Container growing essential.

Complete Pepper Variety Reference
Find the Right Peppers for Your Santa Cruz County Microclimate
Sweet Peppers - Cool Tolerant
Variety Days Type Coastal Inland Warm SLV Fog Notes
Shishito 60-75 Sweet Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Most reliable pepper for any microclimate. Japanese blistering pepper.
Padron 60-70 Sweet Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Spanish blistering pepper from climate like ours. Equal to shishito.
Lunch Box 60 Sweet Yes Yes Yes Yes Try Mini bells in red/orange/yellow. Very productive. Best snacking pepper.
Lipstick 55 Sweet Yes Yes Yes Yes Try Very early, tapered red fruits. Exceptionally sweet.
Gypsy 60-65 Sweet Yes Yes Yes Yes Try Bred for cool climates. All-America winner. Ultra-reliable.
King of the North 65-70 Sweet Try Yes Yes Yes Try Best bell pepper for cold climates. Sets fruit at low temps.
Ace 50-60 Sweet Try Yes Yes Yes No Very early bell. Medium size but consistent producer.
Sweet Peppers - Moderate Heat Requirement
Variety Days Type Coastal Inland Warm SLV Fog Notes
Jimmy Nardello 75 Sweet No Yes Yes Sun No Legendary Italian frying pepper. Incredible flavor. Very productive.
Carmen 75 Sweet No Yes Yes Sun No All-America winner. Italian-style, brilliant red, exceptional flavor.
Cubanelle 65-70 Sweet Try Yes Yes Yes No Classic frying pepper. Earlier than most Italian types.
Marconi 70-72 Sweet No Yes Yes Sun No Long Italian sweet, 6-8". Red, yellow, or gold.
Sweet Banana 65-70 Sweet Try Yes Yes Yes No Yellow banana-shaped. Great fried or pickled.
Pimento 75 Sweet No Yes Yes Sun No Heart-shaped, incredibly sweet. Classic stuffing/roasting pepper.
Sweet Peppers - Warmth Loving
Variety Days Type Coastal Inland Warm SLV Fog Notes
California Wonder 75 Sweet No Try Yes No No Classic large bell. Only succeeds in warmest areas.
Big Bertha 72 Sweet No No Yes No No Extra-large bell, up to 7". Needs sustained warmth.
Corno di Toro 70-80 Sweet No Try Yes No No Large Italian "Bull's Horn". Thick sweet flesh. Red or yellow.
Hot Peppers - Cool Tolerant
Variety Days Heat Coastal Inland Warm SLV Fog Notes
Manzano 90 Hot Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Prefers cool! Andean highland pepper. Citrusy heat, 30,000+ SHU.
Chiltepin 80-90 Hot Yes Yes Yes Yes Try Wild ancestor pepper. Small round fruits, sharp heat 50,000-100,000 SHU.
Fish Pepper 70-75 Med Yes Yes Yes Yes Try Heirloom with variegated leaves. 5,000-30,000 SHU.
Hungarian Hot Wax 60-70 Med Try Yes Yes Yes No Early, productive. 5,000-15,000 SHU. Good for pickling.
Early Jalapeno 60-65 Med Try Yes Yes Yes No Earlier than standard jalapeno. May produce on coast with protection.
Hot Peppers - Moderate Heat Requirement
Variety Days Heat Coastal Inland Warm SLV Fog Notes
Jalapeno 75 Med No Yes Yes Sun No Workhorse hot pepper. 2,500-8,000 SHU. Reliable, versatile.
Serrano 75-80 Med No Yes Yes Sun No Hotter than jalapeno. 10,000-25,000 SHU. Great for fresh salsa.
Anaheim 75-80 Mild No Yes Yes Sun No Large mild chile. 500-2,500 SHU. Great for roasting, stuffing.
Poblano 75-80 Mild No Yes Yes Sun No Heart-shaped, for stuffing. 1,000-2,000 SHU. Dried = ancho.
Cayenne 70-75 Hot No Yes Yes Sun No Long thin red. 30,000-50,000 SHU. Great for drying.
Thai 75-80 Hot No Yes Yes Sun No Small, very hot. 50,000-100,000 SHU. Compact, prolific plants.
Hot Peppers - Warmth Loving (Watsonville/Sunny SLV Ridges)
Variety Days Heat Coastal Inland Warm SLV Fog Notes
Habanero 90-100 Super No Try Yes No No Tropical heat-lover. 100,000-350,000 SHU. Fruity, intense.
Scotch Bonnet 90-100 Super No No Yes No No Caribbean relative of habanero. Similar heat, different flavor.
Ghost Pepper 120+ Super No No Try No No Superhot 1,000,000+ SHU. Very long season. Only warmest spots.
Carolina Reaper 120+ Super No No Try No No Extreme superhot. For dedicated growers only. Start seeds in Feb.
Legend
Yes = Reliable success
Try = Possible with good conditions
No = Not recommended
Sun = Sunny SLV sites only
Sweet = No heat
Mild = Under 2,500 SHU
Med = 2,500-30,000 SHU
Hot = 30,000-100,000 SHU
Super = 100,000+ SHU
Best Single Pepper for Santa Cruz County: If you can only grow one variety, choose shishito or padron. They produce reliably in every microclimate, from foggy Davenport to warm Watsonville, and taste incredible blistered in a hot pan.
Sources: UC Davis Pepper Database, seed company data, local Santa Cruz growing experience

Coastal Gardens: Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz, Live Oak

Coastal gardens face persistent fog, cool nights often in the low 50s, and reduced sun hours. Standard pepper advice doesn't apply here. Success requires choosing varieties bred for cool conditions and using every season-extension trick available.

Sweet Peppers for Coastal Gardens

Top picks:

Shishito - The single most reliable pepper for foggy gardens. Japanese variety that sets fruit in cool conditions, produces heavily, and matures quickly (60-75 days). Harvest when green. Mild with occasional spicy surprises. See detailed growing guide

Padron - Spanish blistering pepper from Galicia, a region with climate remarkably similar to Santa Cruz. Same fog tolerance as shishito, slightly different flavor (earthier, more mineral). 60-70 days. See detailed growing guide

Lunch Box Mix - Mini bells that actually work on the coast. Three colors (red, orange, yellow), about 60 days to maturity. Small fruits develop faster than full-size bells. Very productive.

Lipstick - Tapered 4-inch sweet pepper, exceptionally early (55 days). Sets fruit reliably in cool conditions. Bright red when ripe, very sweet.

Gypsy - All-America winner specifically bred for cool climates. Wedge-shaped fruits, 60-65 days. One of the most reliable sweet peppers for coastal gardens.

King of the North - If you must try bell peppers, this is your best option. Bred for cold climates, sets fruit at lower temperatures than other bells. Medium-size fruits, 65-70 days.

Worth trying:

Ace - Very early bell (50-60 days), sets fruit in cool conditions. Medium-sized, not the largest bells but consistent producer.

Mini Belle - Compact plants, tiny bell-shaped fruits. Very early (55-60 days). Good for containers.

Cubanelle - Italian frying pepper, earlier than most at 65-70 days. Productive, mild, versatile.

Hot Peppers for Coastal Gardens

Hot peppers generally need more heat than sweet peppers, but several varieties tolerate or even prefer cooler conditions.

Top picks:

Manzano - A remarkable hot pepper that actually prefers cool conditions. Native to Andean highlands, it thrives in temperatures that would stall other hot peppers. Apple-shaped fruits, citrusy heat (30,000+ Scoville). Perennial in mild winters. See detailed growing guide

Chiltepin - Wild ancestor of cultivated peppers, surprisingly adaptable. Small round fruits with sharp heat (50,000-100,000 Scoville). Tolerates cooler conditions better than most hot peppers. See detailed growing guide

Fish Pepper - Heirloom with variegated leaves and striped fruits. Medium heat (5,000-30,000 Scoville), earlier than most hot peppers. Historical variety from mid-Atlantic, tolerates cooler conditions.

Worth trying:

Early Jalapeno - Earlier than standard jalapenos (60-65 days vs 75+). May produce in warm coastal microclimates with wall protection.

Hungarian Hot Wax - Medium heat (5,000-15,000 Scoville), early (60-70 days). Yellow banana-shaped fruits. More cool-tolerant than many hot peppers.

Coastal Growing Strategies

Container growing: The single best strategy for coastal peppers. Containers let you move plants to catch sun, protect from wind, and warm soil faster. Use at least 5-gallon containers, larger for bigger plants.

South-facing walls: Reflected heat from walls can add 10-15 degrees and create a warmer microclimate. Position containers against south or southwest facing walls.

Black plastic mulch: Warms soil significantly. Essential for in-ground planting.

Wall O' Waters: Provide warmth at transplant time and protect from cold nights. Can allow planting 2-3 weeks earlier.

Late transplanting: Wait until late May or early June when nights are more reliably warm.

Realistic expectations: Plan for 10-25 peppers per plant of appropriate varieties. Green harvests more common than fully colored peppers. Success is possible but requires variety selection and extra effort.

Inland Valleys: Scotts Valley, Soquel

Inland valleys enjoy warmer days, more sun hours, and longer warm seasons than the coast. Most sweet peppers grow well here, and many hot peppers succeed with good site selection.

Sweet Peppers for Inland Valleys

Top picks:

Jimmy Nardello - Legendary Italian frying pepper. Long thin fruits (8-10 inches), incredible flavor when fried. 75 days but very productive once started. One of the best peppers you can grow.

Carmen - All-America winner, Italian-style sweet pepper. Brilliant red, exceptional flavor, very productive. 75 days.

Lunch Box Mix - Mini bells work even better here than on coast. Heavy production of sweet snacking peppers.

Lipstick - Early, reliable, delicious. Works in any Santa Cruz microclimate.

Gypsy - Cool-climate breeding makes it ultra-reliable here. Productive and sweet.

All coastal recommendations - Everything that works on the coast works even better inland.

Worth trying:

Marconi - Long Italian sweet, 6-8 inches. Red, yellow, or gold varieties. 70-72 days. Thicker walls than Jimmy Nardello.

Sweet Banana - Yellow banana-shaped peppers, 65-70 days. Versatile for fresh, frying, or pickling.

Cherry Stuffer - Round 2-3 inch fruits perfect for stuffing. Early (60-65 days), heavy producer.

Pimento L - Classic heart-shaped pimento, incredibly sweet. 75 days.

Ace / Lady Bell / North Star - Early bells that produce reliably here. Medium-sized fruits but consistent.

Full-size bells - Possible with warm microclimate. Choose California Wonder 300 or similar Western-adapted varieties. Expect modest yields compared to warmer areas.

Hot Peppers for Inland Valleys

More hot pepper options open up in inland valleys, though the very hottest superhots still need the warmest locations.

Top picks:

Jalapeno - The workhorse hot pepper succeeds here. Standard varieties (75 days) or early types (60-65 days) both work. Reliable, productive, versatile.

Serrano - Hotter than jalapeno (10,000-25,000 Scoville), thin-walled, great for fresh salsa. 75-80 days.

Anaheim/New Mexico - Large mild chile (500-2,500 Scoville), 75-80 days. Excellent for roasting, stuffing, making chile rellenos.

Poblano - Large heart-shaped chile for stuffing and roasting. Mild heat (1,000-2,000 Scoville). 75-80 days. Dried = ancho chile.

Hungarian Hot Wax - Medium heat, early, productive. Good pickling pepper.

All coastal hot pepper recommendations - Manzano, chiltepin, and fish pepper grow excellently here.

Worth trying:

Cayenne - Long thin red peppers (30,000-50,000 Scoville), 70-75 days. Great for drying.

Thai - Small very hot peppers (50,000-100,000 Scoville). Compact plants, prolific. 75-80 days.

Fresno - Similar to jalapeno but ripens to red and slightly hotter. 75 days.

Habanero - In warmest inland spots, habaneros may produce. Choose early varieties. Less reliable than in Watsonville.

Inland Growing Strategies

Full sun essential: Give peppers your sunniest spot with minimum 6-8 hours direct sun.

Transplant mid-May: Soil typically warms earlier than coast. Mid-May transplanting usually safe.

Consistent watering: More important than extra fertilizer. Inconsistent water causes blossom drop and bitter fruit.

Variety diversity: Grow multiple varieties to spread risk and extend harvest season.

Warmest Areas: Watsonville, Sunny Boulder Creek

These are the county's best pepper-growing locations. Nearly any variety succeeds here, including long-season bells, superhots, and tropical types that struggle elsewhere.

Sweet Peppers for Warm Areas

Grow anything on the previous lists, plus:

California Wonder - The classic bell pepper. Large, thick-walled, 75 days. Actually succeeds here unlike cooler areas.

Big Bertha - Extra-large bell, up to 7 inches. Needs warmth and long season. 72 days.

Corno di Toro - Large Italian "Bull's Horn" pepper. Thick sweet flesh, excellent roasted. Red or yellow varieties. 70-80 days.

Orange/Yellow/Chocolate bells - Colored bell varieties that need extra time to mature. Possible here with full season.

Hot Peppers for Warm Areas

Grow anything on previous lists, plus:

Habanero - Tropical hot pepper (100,000-350,000 Scoville) that needs sustained warmth. Fruity flavor, intense heat. 90-100 days. Orange, red, or chocolate varieties.

Scotch Bonnet - Caribbean relative of habanero. Similar heat, slightly different flavor. 90-100 days.

Ghost Pepper (Bhut Jolokia) - Superhot (1,000,000+ Scoville). Requires long warm season. 120+ days. Possible in warmest spots with early start.

Carolina Reaper / Trinidad Scorpion - Extreme superhots. Very long season (100-120 days). Only the most dedicated growers in the warmest locations. Start seeds in February.

Aji varieties - South American peppers with fruity, citrusy heat. Aji Amarillo (30,000-50,000 Scoville), Aji Lemon Drop (15,000-30,000 Scoville). 75-90 days.

Warm Area Growing Strategies

Early planting: Take advantage of early soil warming. Late April transplanting often possible.

Succession planting: With the long season, plant in waves for extended harvest.

Multiple varieties: Grow a range from mild to hot, early to late.

Consider afternoon shade: On the rare very hot days (90+), some afternoon shade can prevent sunscald. Not usually necessary.

San Lorenzo Valley: Boulder Creek, Ben Lomond, Felton

The San Lorenzo Valley presents the most variable growing conditions in the county. Sunny ridges can grow peppers well, while shaded canyons struggle with even the most fog-tolerant varieties.

Know Your Specific Site

Before choosing varieties, honestly assess your conditions:

Sunny exposures (6+ hours direct sun): Treat like inland valleys. Good variety selection possible.

Partial sun (4-6 hours): Treat like coastal gardens. Focus on fog-tolerant varieties.

Shaded canyons (under 4 hours sun): Peppers will struggle. Consider whether the space is better used for shade-tolerant crops.

Sweet Peppers for San Lorenzo Valley

Sunny sites:

  • All inland valley recommendations apply

  • Jimmy Nardello, Carmen, Marconi

  • Mini bells, Lipstick, Gypsy

  • Early bells possible (Ace, King of the North)

Mixed/partial sun:

  • Shishito, Padron (most reliable)

  • Lunch Box, Mini Belle

  • Lipstick, Gypsy

Shaded canyons:

  • Shishito and Padron only realistic options

  • Container growing to maximize sun

  • Consider skipping peppers entirely

Hot Peppers for San Lorenzo Valley

Sunny sites:

  • Jalapeno, serrano, Anaheim

  • Manzano (actually prefers cooler conditions)

  • Chiltepin

  • Hungarian Hot Wax

Mixed/partial sun:

  • Manzano (top choice)

  • Chiltepin

  • Early jalapeno (may produce)

San Lorenzo Valley Strategies

Maximize sun: Site peppers in the sunniest spot available. Even a few extra hours of sun dramatically improves production.

Watch for frost pockets: Cold air pools in valley bottoms and canyons. Higher elevations may actually be warmer on cold nights.

Container mobility: If sun shifts seasonally, containers let you follow it.

Extend season: Wall O' Waters, row covers, and other protection help in variable conditions.

Heavy Fog Zones: Davenport, Exposed Coast

The most challenging pepper-growing areas in the county. Persistent fog, constant wind, and cool temperatures year-round limit options severely. But even here, the right varieties can produce.

What Actually Works

Shishito - Your best bet. Bred for cool conditions, sets fruit when other peppers sulk. Container growing recommended.

Padron - From Galicia, Spain, where conditions mirror heavy fog zones. Same reliability as shishito.

Gypsy - Bred specifically for cool climates. May produce in containers against warm walls.

King of the North - If you want to try bells, this is the only realistic option. Modest expectations.

Manzano - The cool-loving hot pepper. May actually prefer these conditions to warmer inland areas.

Heavy Fog Zone Strategies

Containers are essential: Not optional. Mobility to catch sun and escape wind is critical.

Create microclimates: South-facing walls, wind breaks, cold frames, greenhouses.

Start early indoors: Maximum time for fruit development during the warmest months.

Accept limitations: Some years will be better than others. Even good years produce modest harvests compared to warmer areas.

Consider alternatives: If peppers consistently disappoint, the space may be better used for crops that thrive in fog: greens, brassicas, root vegetables.

Pepper Planting Timeline by Microclimate
When to Start Seeds, Transplant, and What to Expect
Microclimate Start Seeds Transplant First Harvest Success Best Varieties
Coastal Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz, Live Oak Late Feb - Early Mar Late May - Mid June Mid-July - Aug Limited Shishito, Padron, Lunch Box, Lipstick, Gypsy, King of the North, Manzano
Inland Valleys Scotts Valley, Soquel Mid-Feb - Early Mar Mid-May - Early June Early-Mid July Good All cool-tolerant plus Jimmy Nardello, Carmen, Jalapeno, Serrano, Poblano
Warmest Areas Watsonville, sunny Boulder Creek Early-Mid Feb Late April - Mid May Late June - July Excellent Nearly all varieties including bells, habanero, and superhots with early start
SLV - Sunny Sunny ridges, Boulder Creek, Ben Lomond Mid-Feb - Early Mar Mid-May - Early June Mid-July Good Similar to inland valleys. Full sun (6+ hours) essential.
SLV - Shaded Canyons in Felton, Ben Lomond Late Feb - Mar Late May - June August (if any) Challenging Shishito, Padron only. Consider skipping peppers for shade-tolerant crops.
Heavy Fog Zones Davenport, exposed coast Mid-Feb - Early Mar Early-Mid June August Challenging Shishito, Padron, Manzano. Containers essential.
Seed Starting Math: Peppers need 8-10 weeks indoors before transplanting. Count backwards from your target transplant date. Use a heat mat (75-85 degrees F) for germination. Peppers germinate slowly (7-21 days) compared to tomatoes.
The Soil Temperature Rule: Wait until soil reaches 60 degrees F at 4-inch depth before transplanting. Cold soil stunts pepper growth worse than waiting a few extra weeks. A soil thermometer ($10) takes the guesswork out.
Days to Maturity Reality Check: Seed packet "days to maturity" assumes optimal conditions. In Santa Cruz County, add 2-4 weeks to those estimates, especially in coastal and foggy areas. A "70-day" pepper might take 85-100 days in cool conditions.
Transplants vs. Seeds: Starting from seed gives access to the best varieties for our climate (most nurseries stock standard bells that struggle here). But buying transplants saves 8-10 weeks and avoids germination challenges. If your nursery carries shishitos, padrons, or other fog-tolerant varieties, transplants are a great option.
Based on: UC ANR planting guides, soil temperature data, local Santa Cruz growing experience

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the single best pepper for Santa Cruz County?

If you can only grow one variety, make it shishito. It produces reliably in every microclimate, from foggy Davenport to warm Watsonville. The flavor is excellent, the plants are productive, and they're incredibly easy to prepare (just blister in a hot pan with oil and salt). Padron is equally reliable if you prefer Spanish cuisine.

Why do my peppers flower but never fruit?

This is blossom drop, almost always caused by temperature issues. Night temperatures below 55 degrees F cause flowers to drop without setting fruit. Solutions: choose cool-tolerant varieties, grow in containers you can protect on cold nights, plant against warm walls, use Wall O' Waters.

Can I grow habaneros in Santa Cruz?

In Watsonville or sunny Boulder Creek, yes. In coastal areas or fog zones, probably not. Habaneros need sustained warmth for 90-100 days. In marginal areas, choose early habanero varieties and give them your warmest, most protected spot.

How many pepper plants should I grow?

For a household that uses peppers regularly: 6-10 plants of productive varieties (shishitos, mini bells, frying peppers) or 3-4 plants of larger-fruited varieties. Start smaller if testing new varieties or growing conditions.

When should I plant peppers in Santa Cruz County?

Wait for soil temperature of 60 degrees F at 4-inch depth. Typical timing: Watsonville late April, inland valleys mid-May, coastal areas late May to early June, fog zones early to mid-June. Starting too early in cold soil stunts plants worse than waiting.

Can I overwinter pepper plants?

In mild winters, some peppers survive as perennials. Manzanos are most likely to return, being naturally perennial. Shishitos and padrons may survive mild winters. In colder areas, take cuttings or bring containers under cover. Most gardeners treat peppers as annuals.

Are there pepper varieties I should avoid?

Avoid standard bell peppers in coastal areas (they rarely succeed). Avoid superhots (ghost pepper, reaper) anywhere but the warmest locations with dedicated growing conditions. Avoid any variety listed at 90+ days unless you're in Watsonville or have season extension measures.

What's the difference between seed packet days and actual harvest time?

Seed packet "days to maturity" assumes optimal conditions: warm soil, warm days, warm nights. In Santa Cruz County, especially coastal areas, add 2-4 weeks to those estimates. A "70-day" pepper might take 85-100 days in foggy conditions.

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