Growing Strawberries in Santa Cruz County: A Local Guide to Sweet Success

Grow Guides
Written By Adrienne Gaughan

Here in Santa Cruz County, we garden in the backyard of Watsonville, a city whose coastal fields and fertile Pajaro Valley soils have earned it the title "Strawberry Capital of the World." The same cool marine influence, mild winters, and moderate summers that make commercial strawberry production thrive here also mean your home garden has excellent potential for growing these sweet fruits.

Growing your own strawberries offers something the grocery store can't match: flavor. Commercial berries are bred for shipping durability, not taste. Home garden varieties prioritize sweetness and juiciness because they only need to travel from your yard to your kitchen. There's real satisfaction in watching a strawberry plant progress from blossom to ripe fruit, and in knowing exactly how it was grown.

This guide will help you choose the right varieties for your specific location in Santa Cruz County, plant them properly, and keep your patch productive for years.

Understanding Strawberry Types

Before choosing varieties, it helps to understand how strawberry plants produce fruit. According to the UC Agriculture and Natural Resources strawberry guide, strawberries fall into three main categories based on their flowering behavior.

June-Bearing (Short-Day) Strawberries

These varieties produce one large harvest in late spring to early summer. They form flower buds when days are short (fall and winter), then fruit when days lengthen in spring. June-bearing types give you the biggest single harvest, which is ideal if you want to make jam, freeze berries, or enjoy an abundance all at once.

Best for: Gardeners who want a concentrated harvest for preserving, or those in areas with distinct seasons.

Day-Neutral Strawberries

Day-neutral varieties can produce flowers and fruit whenever temperatures are between roughly 40°F and 90°F, regardless of day length. In Santa Cruz County's mild climate, this means you can harvest berries over a much longer season (sometimes spring through fall) rather than all at once.

Best for: Gardeners who want a steady supply of fresh berries over many months. Excellent choice for most Santa Cruz County gardens.

Everbearing Strawberries

Everbearing types produce two to three flushes of fruit per year (typically spring and fall), with lighter production in between. The term "everbearing" is sometimes used interchangeably with "day-neutral," though technically they behave slightly differently.

Best for: Gardeners who want multiple harvests without the commitment to full season-long production.

Best Strawberry Varieties for Santa Cruz County

Strawberry Variety Selector for Santa Cruz County
Variety Type Flavor & Fruit Best Santa Cruz Locations Harvest Source
Albion ★ Day-Neutral Medium-large, firm berries with excellent sweet flavor. Good disease resistance. Considered the "gold standard" UC variety. Excellent throughout Santa Cruz County. Performs well in coastal fog zones and inland valleys alike. Long season (spring through fall) Lassen Canyon
Seascape ★ Day-Neutral Large, glossy, flavorful fruit. Good heat tolerance and lower chill requirements. Bred for California disease resistance. Great for warmer areas like Watsonville/Pajaro Valley. Also performs well coastal. Very adaptable. Long season (spring through fall) Strawberry Plants
Chandler Short-Day Large, firm, sweet berries. Popular commercial variety with excellent flavor. Good for fresh eating and preserving. Mild coastal and inland climates. Good choice for Scotts Valley, Aptos, and similar moderate zones. Late spring (one main crop) Lassen Canyon
Sequoia Short-Day Large, sweet, exceptionally juicy. Softer fruit best for immediate eating. Outstanding flavor, less shipping durability. Developed for coastal California. Ideal for Santa Cruz, Aptos, Capitola fog zones. Backyard favorite. Spring into early summer East Bay Nursery
💡 Beginner's Pick: Start with Albion or Seascape (marked with ★). These day-neutral varieties are forgiving, disease-resistant, and produce berries over a long season in Santa Cruz County's climate. Add a short-day variety like Sequoia once you're comfortable if you want peak spring flavor.

Day-neutral varieties fruit when temperatures are 40–90°F regardless of day length. Short-day (June-bearing) varieties produce one large spring crop. Sources: UC releases and California nursery data.

For California home gardens, reliable varieties include day-neutral types for long-season production and short-day varieties for classic, richly flavored spring crops. Here are varieties that perform well in our local conditions.

Day-Neutral Varieties (Best for Most Santa Cruz Gardens)

Albion

Albion is a University of California release widely considered a "gold standard" day-neutral variety. It produces medium to large, firm berries with excellent flavor and good disease resistance. Albion performs well across many California regions and is often recommended for home gardens. If you're gardening around Santa Cruz and Watsonville, your cool, fog-kissed summers and mild winters are perfect for this variety.

Seascape

Seascape is another UC release bred specifically for tolerance to common California viral diseases. It produces large, glossy, flavorful fruit and requires fewer chill hours than many varieties. Seascape has good heat tolerance, making it a strong choice for warmer parts of the county like the Pajaro Valley, but it also performs well in coastal areas.

Short-Day (June-Bearing) Varieties

Chandler

Chandler is a UC-developed variety producing large, firm, sweet berries. It's popular for roadside stands and home gardens where a strong spring crop is desired. Chandler performs well in many mild coastal and inland climates throughout Santa Cruz County.

Sequoia

Sequoia is a classic California variety developed for coastal conditions, bearing from spring into summer. It produces large, sweet, juicy berries with excellent flavor but softer fruit that's best for backyard picking rather than long storage. If you prioritize flavor over firmness, Sequoia is hard to beat.

When to Plant Strawberries in Santa Cruz County

Timing your planting to match your specific microclimate gives your strawberries the best start. According to UC ANR's home garden strawberry guide, California gardeners have flexibility that colder regions don't enjoy.

When to Plant Strawberries in Santa Cruz County
Microclimate Zone Best Planting Window Recommended Varieties Notes
Coastal Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz, Live Oak Late Summer – Fall Late August – November Day-neutral: Albion, Seascape
Short-day: Sequoia (developed for coastal CA) 		Mild winters allow fall planting. Plants root over winter, produce heavily by spring. Fog-kissed conditions are ideal for extended harvest.
💡 Fall-planted day-neutrals often fruit by February
San Lorenzo Valley Boulder Creek, Ben Lomond, Felton (sunny areas) Late Winter – Early Spring February – March Day-neutral: Albion, Seascape
Short-day: Chandler 		More frost risk means spring planting after coldest weather is safer. Fall planting possible with heavy mulching for winter protection.
💡 Choose sunny spots; avoid frost pockets
Inland Valleys Scotts Valley, Soquel hills Fall or Early Spring Oct–Nov or Feb–March Day-neutral: Albion, Seascape
Short-day: Chandler, Sequoia 		Moderate conditions offer flexibility. Fall planting gives a head start; spring planting avoids frost concerns. Either works well.
💡 Good drainage is key in clay soils
Pajaro Valley Watsonville, Freedom Fall October – December Day-neutral: Seascape (heat-tolerant), Albion
Short-day: Chandler 		Warmest zone, longest growing season. Fall planting in still-warm soil leads to strong establishment. This is strawberry country!
💡 You're gardening in the Strawberry Capital

Quick Summary

Coastal & Watsonville: Plant in fall (Sept–Nov) for best results. Mild winters let plants establish roots before spring fruiting.
San Lorenzo Valley & Inland: Spring planting (Feb–March) is safest if you have frost. Fall works with good mulch protection.

Timing based on UC ANR recommendations for California home gardens. Exact windows vary by year; check soil temperature (ideally 50–65°F) and avoid planting during extreme heat or hard freezes. Sources: UC ANR "Growing Strawberries in the Home Garden" and regional extension guides.

Coastal Areas (Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz, Live Oak)

Best planting window: Late summer through late fall (roughly late August through November)

Our mild winters allow fall planting so plants can establish roots over the cooler months and produce heavily the following spring. Day-neutral varieties planted in fall often begin producing fruit by late winter or early spring.

San Lorenzo Valley and Inland Areas (Boulder Creek, Ben Lomond, Scotts Valley)

Best planting window: Late winter to early spring (February through March)

If you're in an area with harder frosts, spring planting after the coldest weather passes is safer. Protect new plantings from late cold snaps if needed. You can also try fall planting with good mulching for winter protection.

Pajaro Valley (Watsonville)

Best planting window: Fall (October through December) for winter and spring harvest

Watsonville's warmer conditions and longer growing season favor fall planting of both day-neutral and short-day types. Plants establish quickly in the still-warm soil and produce well by spring.

Year-Round Flexibility

One advantage of gardening in Santa Cruz County is our extended planting season. In the mildest coastal parts of the county, you can sometimes plant nearly year-round, though avoiding the peak of summer heat and the coldest winter weeks gives the best results.

How to Plant Strawberries

You have three main options for starting your strawberry patch: bare-root plants, established potted plants, or seeds. Each has advantages depending on your timeline and budget.

Planting Bare-Root Strawberries

Starting with bare-root strawberries is economical and gives you access to more varieties than you'll find as potted plants at local nurseries. According to UC ANR's bare-root planting guide, here's how to do it successfully.

Soak the roots first. Before planting, immerse the bare roots in water for about an hour. This rehydrates the plants after dormancy and helps them establish more quickly.

Get the crown depth right. This is the most critical step. The crown (where the roots meet the stem) should sit exactly at soil level. If you plant too deep, the crown can rot. Too shallow, and roots won't establish well. Take your time with this step.

Space plants properly. Set plants 12 to 18 inches apart to allow for good air circulation and strong crown development. This spacing reduces the risk of fungal diseases, which can be a problem in Santa Cruz County's humid coastal areas.

Water thoroughly after planting. Soak the soil well to settle it around the roots and eliminate air pockets. Keep soil consistently moist (not waterlogged) as plants establish.

Mulch immediately. Apply 2 to 3 inches of straw, pine needles, or other organic mulch around plants. Mulch conserves moisture, keeps roots cool, and prevents berries from touching damp soil where they can rot.

Planting Established Potted Strawberries

If you want faster results, established plants from local nurseries get you to harvest sooner. The same crown-depth rule applies: position the crown right at soil level. If plants are rootbound in their pots, gently tease roots apart before planting to encourage them to spread into their new home.

According to UC Master Gardeners of Napa County, if you're planting in containers, use pots at least 12 inches deep so roots have adequate room and moisture retention.

Growing Strawberries from Seed

Starting from seed is the most patient approach and not typically recommended for beginners. Strawberry seeds germinate slowly (often several weeks to a month) and seedlings take much longer to reach fruiting size than bare-root or potted plants. If you want to try it, start seeds indoors in seed-starting mix, pressing them lightly into the surface (they need light to germinate). Transplant seedlings to the garden once they have several true leaves and frost danger has passed.

Creating the Right Growing Conditions

Strawberries need a few key conditions to thrive.

Sun

Full sun (6 or more hours of direct light) produces the sweetest berries and strongest plants. In our cooler coastal areas, maximizing sun exposure is especially important. If you're gardening under the redwoods with limited light, strawberries may struggle, and you might focus on shade-tolerant crops instead.

Soil

Strawberries prefer slightly acidic, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Most Santa Cruz County soils benefit from adding compost before planting. If you have heavy clay or very sandy soil, raised beds or mounds (see below) can help.

Drainage

Good drainage is essential. Strawberry crowns sitting in waterlogged soil quickly develop rot. If your soil drains poorly, raised beds or mounded rows are the solution.

Raised Beds and Mounded Rows

Raised beds and mounded planting rows offer several advantages for strawberry growing, especially in Santa Cruz County.

Better drainage. Elevating the root zone prevents waterlogging during our wet winters.

Warmer soil. Raised beds warm up faster in spring, giving plants an earlier start.

Easier harvest. Less bending means more comfortable picking.

Cleaner fruit. Berries stay off wet ground, reducing rot and pest damage.

According to the Master Gardener Association of San Diego County, mounding soil 6 to 8 inches high in rows works well for in-ground planting. For raised beds, aim for at least 12 inches of soil depth.

Caring for Your Strawberry Patch

Once planted, strawberries need consistent attention to produce well.

Watering

Keep soil consistently moist, especially while plants establish and during fruit production. In the drier parts of summer (even with coastal fog), you'll likely need to water regularly. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses work well because they keep water off leaves and fruit, reducing disease risk. Check out our Drip Irrigation Setup 101 guide for installation tips.

Mulching

Maintain 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch around plants year-round. Straw is traditional (hence "strawberry"), but pine needles or wood chips also work. Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps developing berries clean.

Weeding

Keep your strawberry beds weed-free. Weeds compete for water and nutrients that your berries need, and this competition is especially challenging during our dry summers. Regular weeding while weeds are small is much easier than battling established invaders.

Managing Runners

Strawberry plants send out runners (horizontal stems) that root and form new plants. This is useful for expanding your patch or replacing older plants, but too many runners can overcrowd beds and reduce fruit production. Decide whether you want to let selected runners root (and remove the rest) or remove all runners to focus the plant's energy on fruit.

Fertilizing

Feed strawberries with a balanced fertilizer or compost tea in early spring as growth begins, and again after the main harvest. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which promote leaf growth at the expense of fruit.

Renewing Your Patch

Strawberry plants produce best for about 2 to 3 years before productivity declines. According to the UC ANR strawberry guide, plan to rejuvenate your patch periodically by either replacing older plants with new runners you've rooted, or starting fresh with new bare-root or potted plants.

In Santa Cruz County's long growing season, plants can wear out faster than in colder climates, so pay attention to declining yields as a signal that it's time to renew.

Where to Buy Strawberry Plants Locally

For bare-root plants and local variety advice, visit these Santa Cruz County nurseries:

Check our Garden Events Calendar for plant sales where you might find specialty varieties, including events at UCSC Farm and local nurseries.

For mail-order bare-root plants with excellent variety selection, Lassen Canyon Nursery ships throughout California.

Frequently Asked Questions

What's the best strawberry variety for Santa Cruz County beginners?

Albion and Seascape (both day-neutral UC varieties) are excellent starting points. They're disease-resistant, produce over a long season in our climate, and have good flavor. Both handle our coastal conditions well.

Can I grow strawberries in containers?

Yes. Use containers at least 12 inches deep with good drainage holes. Strawberries in pots need more frequent watering than in-ground plants, especially during summer. Day-neutral varieties work best for containers since they produce over a longer season.

When will I get my first harvest?

With bare-root plants planted in fall, expect your first berries by late winter or early spring (roughly February through April depending on variety and weather). Spring-planted strawberries typically fruit later that same year, though the first-year harvest may be smaller.

Why are my strawberry plants producing lots of leaves but few berries?

This usually indicates too much nitrogen fertilizer, too little sun, or the plant putting energy into runners instead of fruit. Reduce fertilizer, ensure plants get full sun, and remove runners you don't need for propagation.

How do I protect strawberries from birds?

Bird netting draped over plants (supported by hoops or stakes to keep it off the fruit) is the most effective solution. Apply netting as berries begin to color. Some gardeners also use reflective tape or fake predators with mixed results.

Do strawberries grow well under redwood trees?

Generally no. Strawberries need full sun (6+ hours daily) to produce well, and the shade and acidic soil under redwoods make them struggle. If you're in a heavily shaded area, focus on crops that thrive in shade instead.

How often should I replace my strawberry plants?

Plan to renew your patch every 2 to 3 years. You can either root runners from your existing plants to create new starts, or purchase fresh bare-root or potted plants. Declining yields are the signal that it's time.

What causes small, misshapen strawberries?

Poor pollination (often from cold weather during bloom), inconsistent watering, or nutrient deficiency can all cause misshapen fruit. Ensure plants have adequate water during flowering and fruit development, and consider hand-pollinating with a small brush if bees are scarce.

Free Gardening Resources

Download these guides from our Garden Toolkit to help plan your strawberry growing:

Find all our free guides in Your Garden Toolkit.

Your Strawberry Patch Awaits

Growing strawberries in Santa Cruz County connects you to the same ideal conditions that make Watsonville famous for these fruits. With the right variety for your microclimate, proper planting technique, and consistent care, you can enjoy sun-warmed berries straight from your garden.

Start with a few plants of a reliable day-neutral variety like Albion or Seascape. Once you taste your first homegrown strawberry (still warm from the sun, juice running down your chin), you'll understand why commercial berries just can't compare.

Check today's conditions on our Garden Conditions Dashboard to see if it's a good day to get your strawberry patch started.

More Strawberry Growing Guides

Part of our Complete Strawberry Series for Santa Cruz County:

Adrienne Gaughan
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