Growing Raspberries in Santa Cruz County: A Complete Guide
Raspberries were practically made for places like Santa Cruz County. They love cool summers, need some winter chill, and reward even small backyards with sweet, intensely flavored berries when planted in the right spot. Unlike many fruits that struggle with our coastal fog, raspberries actually prefer it.
This guide walks you through choosing the right type for our local climate, preparing your site, planting and caring for canes, and knowing what to expect from your first few seasons. You'll also find links to deeper dives on pruning, varieties, containers, and common problems as you need them.
If you've been hesitant to try growing raspberries because you've heard they're finicky, here's the good news: in Santa Cruz County, you have a significant advantage over gardeners in hotter parts of California. Let's make the most of it.
Why Raspberries Belong in Santa Cruz
According to UC ANR's Growing Raspberries guide, raspberries are generally best adapted to cool coastal climates in California. Hot interior areas present more challenges, including heat stress, sunburn, and insufficient winter chill.
That description fits Santa Cruz County almost perfectly. Our foggy mornings, moderate summer highs, and mild winters create conditions that many raspberry varieties love. The same maritime influence that makes it tough to grow heat-loving crops like melons gives raspberries exactly what they need.
UC Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County (which shares similar coastal fog patterns with us) notes that raspberries can grow in soil types ranging from sandy loam to clay, as long as the soil is deep and well-drained. This flexibility means most Santa Cruz County gardeners can find a suitable spot.
Here's what makes our county particularly good for raspberries:
Cool summers that prevent heat stress and sunburn on fruit
Morning fog that keeps temperatures moderate during fruiting
Enough winter chill for most varieties (with some exceptions in the warmest microclimates)
A long, mild fall that allows extended harvests from primocane types
Year-round growing conditions that support healthy root systems
That said, not every corner of Santa Cruz County offers identical conditions. Gardeners in the foggy Westside of Santa Cruz or coastal Aptos will have different considerations than those in sunnier Scotts Valley or the warmer San Lorenzo Valley. We'll address those microclimate differences throughout this guide.
Raspberry Growing at a Glance
Your Quick Reference for Santa Cruz County
Caroline
Large, flavorful, disease resistantJoan J
Thornless, early, high yieldsHeritage
Reliable classic, widely availableAnne
Yellow, sweet, for fresh eatingBababerry
Heat tolerant, for warm spotsRaspberry Shortcake
Compact, thornless, for containersAll listed varieties are primocane (everbearing) types recommended for most Santa Cruz gardens
Do This
- Choose primocane varieties for easiest care
- Ensure excellent drainage
- Prune annually in winter
- Water consistently (drip is best)
- Harvest every 2-3 days when ripe
- Thin canes to 4-6 per foot
Avoid This
- Planting in soggy or heavy clay soil
- Overhead watering (wets foliage)
- Wrong pruning for your variety type
- Leaving ripe fruit unpicked
- Overcrowded canes (causes disease)
- Expecting big harvests year 1
Santa Cruz County Quick Tips
Understanding How Raspberry Plants Grow
Before you plant your first raspberry, it helps to understand how these plants work. Raspberries have a unique growth pattern that confuses many new growers, but once you understand it, everything from pruning to variety selection makes much more sense.
Raspberry plants are perennial at the roots and crown, meaning the underground portion lives for many years. However, the canes (the above-ground stems) follow a biennial cycle, living for just two years.
According to Gardening Know How, here's how the cycle works:
Year 1 (Primocanes): New canes emerge from the crown in spring. These first-year canes are called primocanes. On most traditional varieties, primocanes grow vegetatively all season without producing fruit.
Year 2 (Floricanes): Those same canes overwinter and return the following year as floricanes. This is when they flower, produce fruit, and then die after harvest. Meanwhile, new primocanes are already growing from the crown to continue the cycle.
This is where it gets interesting for Santa Cruz County gardeners.
Primocane-Fruiting vs. Floricane-Fruiting Varieties
| Feature | Primocane (Fall-Bearing) | Floricane (Summer-Bearing) |
|---|---|---|
| When They Fruit | Late summer through fall (August to October) on current-year canes | Early to mid-summer (May to July) on second-year canes |
| Pruning Method | Simple: Cut all canes to ground in late winter for one fall crop | Selective: Remove only canes that fruited; keep new canes for next year |
| First Harvest | Year 1 (small crop in first fall) | Year 2 (no fruit until second summer) |
| Chill Requirements | Typically lower (300-500 hours); works in coastal and inland areas | Often higher (600-1000+ hours); best for inland/mountain areas |
| Disease Pressure | Lower (annual removal of all canes breaks disease cycles) | Higher (overwintering canes can harbor disease) |
| SWD Pest Pressure | Often lower (fall fruit avoids peak SWD season) | Can be higher (summer fruit coincides with peak SWD) |
| Best For |
Recommended Most Santa Cruz County gardeners, beginners, coastal areas, small spaces |
Good Option Inland/mountain areas, experienced growers, early summer harvest |
| Popular Varieties | Heritage, Caroline, Joan J, Anne, Fall Gold | Willamette, Tulameen, Meeker |
Gardeners Path explains that raspberry varieties fall into two categories based on when they fruit:
Floricane-fruiting (summer-bearing) varieties follow the traditional pattern described above. They produce one crop per year, typically in early to mid-summer, on second-year canes.
Primocane-fruiting (everbearing/fall-bearing) varieties have been bred to fruit on first-year canes. They produce a crop in late summer to fall on the current season's growth. If you leave those canes standing through winter, they'll also produce a smaller early-summer crop as floricanes the following year before dying.
For most Santa Cruz County home gardeners, primocane-fruiting varieties offer significant advantages:
Simpler pruning: You can cut all canes to the ground each winter and still get a good crop
Better timing: Fall crops avoid the worst of spotted wing drosophila pressure
Faster results: You get fruit the first year after planting
Less disease buildup: Annual removal of all canes breaks disease cycles
We'll cover the primocane versus floricane decision in much more detail in our guide to Primocane vs Floricane Raspberries: Which Should You Grow in California?
Chill Hours and Climate Considerations
Like many fruit crops, raspberries need a certain amount of winter cold to break dormancy and fruit properly. This is measured in "chill hours," typically counted as hours spent between roughly 32°F and 45°F during winter.
Agtech Tools categorizes raspberry cultivars into three chill groups:
High-chill varieties: Need more than 800 hours
Medium-chill varieties: Need 400-600 hours
Low-chill varieties: Need fewer than 400 hours
Santa Cruz County's chill accumulation varies significantly by location. Coastal areas like Aptos and the Westside of Santa Cruz typically receive 400-600 chill hours. Inland and higher elevation areas like Scotts Valley, Ben Lomond, and Boulder Creek accumulate more, often exceeding 800 hours in colder winters.
This means:
Coastal gardeners should focus on low to medium-chill varieties and primocane types
Inland and mountain gardeners have more flexibility and can grow traditional high-chill varieties
Warm pocket gardeners (south-facing slopes, heat islands) should stick with low-chill and primocane varieties
Beyond chill hours, UC ANR notes that raspberries do best where summers are mild. High summer heat causes poor growth, sunburn on fruit, and reduced yields. This is another reason primocane varieties work well here: their fall crop develops during our cooler late-summer and autumn weather, avoiding the warmest days of the year.
Picking the Right Spot in Your Yard
Site selection can make or break your raspberry patch. The good news is that raspberries are relatively adaptable, but paying attention to a few key factors will significantly improve your success.
Sunlight Requirements
UC Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County recommends full sun for raspberries in cool coastal climates. In foggy areas like coastal Santa Cruz, Aptos, or the Westside, give your raspberries the sunniest spot available.
However, Greg Alder's detailed guide to growing raspberries in Southern California offers important nuance for warmer locations. He notes that in hotter areas, afternoon shade can actually improve raspberry performance by reducing heat stress.
For Santa Cruz County, here's how to adjust:
Foggy coastal areas (Aptos, Live Oak, Westside Santa Cruz): Plant in full sun. Fog provides natural cooling, so maximize sun exposure for best fruit production.
Inland valleys (Scotts Valley, parts of Soquel): Full sun works well, but if you have a spot that gets afternoon shade on the hottest days, raspberries will appreciate it.
Warmer, sunnier areas (Boulder Creek ridges, south-facing slopes): Morning sun with afternoon shade is ideal. Avoid planting against south or west-facing walls that will intensify heat.
Soil and Drainage
UC ANR and UC Master Gardeners emphasize that raspberries need deep, well-drained soil. They're particularly susceptible to root diseases in waterlogged conditions.
In Santa Cruz County, you'll encounter several common soil situations:
Heavy clay (common in many valley areas): Amend heavily with compost, plant in raised beds, or choose a different crop. Raspberries really struggle with poor drainage.
Sandy loam (coastal areas): Excellent drainage, but amend with compost to improve water retention. Sandy soils dry out quickly in summer.
Redwood duff soils (San Lorenzo Valley, under redwoods): Often acidic and well-drained. Raspberries tolerate slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5-6.5), so these can work well if you have enough sun.
A gentle slope or raised bed helps drainage and air circulation, both important for disease control. If you're planting in an area with heavy winter rains, consider bermed rows to keep roots above standing water.
Avoid planting where: Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, or other caneberries grew in the past 3-4 years. These crops share soil-borne diseases with raspberries, and rotating away from them reduces infection risk.
Choosing Raspberry Varieties for Santa Cruz
With the climate and site basics covered, let's talk varieties. The best raspberry for your garden depends on your specific microclimate, your pruning preferences, and whether you want one big summer crop or an extended fall harvest.
UC ANR's Growing Raspberries guide suggests that in California, fall-bearing (primocane) types are often easier for home gardeners because they crop later in the season and can be cut to the ground annually.
Here's a quick overview of variety categories that work well in Santa Cruz County:
Primocane (Fall-Bearing) Varieties
These are the workhorse raspberries for most coastal California gardeners:
Heritage: The classic primocane variety. Reliable, productive, excellent flavor. Works well throughout the county.
Caroline: Earlier ripening than Heritage, with larger berries and good disease resistance. Great for coastal areas.
Joan J: Thornless, which makes harvesting much more pleasant. Good flavor and productivity.
Anne: Yellow raspberry with excellent sweet flavor. Slightly less vigorous but worth growing for the unique color and taste.
Fall Gold: Another yellow option, more vigorous than Anne. Beautiful golden berries.
Floricane (Summer-Bearing) Varieties
For gardeners who want the traditional early-summer raspberry season:
Willamette: Classic Pacific Northwest variety. Needs adequate chill but produces excellent berries in cooler parts of the county.
Tulameen: Large, beautiful berries with outstanding flavor. Better for inland areas with more chill.
Heat-Tolerant Options
For gardeners in the warmest microclimates:
Bababerry: Marketed as heat-tolerant. Can help in warmer spots, though shade and water management are usually more important than variety selection.
We cover specific variety recommendations in much more detail in our guide to Best Raspberry Varieties for Santa Cruz County Gardens.
Planting Raspberries in Santa Cruz County
With your site selected and varieties chosen, it's time to plant. Timing and technique both matter for getting your raspberry patch off to a strong start.
When to Plant
UC ANR and GrowOrganic recommend planting raspberries during the dormant season, from late fall through early spring when soil is workable.
In Santa Cruz County, this translates to:
Best timing: December through February for bare-root plants Acceptable: November through March, depending on weather Avoid: Planting during hot, dry weather (May through September)
Bare-root raspberries are the most economical option and establish well when planted in winter. They're available from local nurseries and mail-order sources during the dormant season.
Container-grown plants offer more flexibility and can be planted nearly year-round if you keep them well-watered. However, winter planting is still ideal because it allows roots to establish before the demands of summer growth.
Spacing and Layout
UC Master Gardeners and UC Master Gardeners of Inyo and Mono Counties suggest the following spacing:
Within the row: 2-3 feet between plants
Between rows: 6-10 feet, depending on your trellis system and access needs
For most home gardens, a single row works well. A row 10-15 feet long will produce plenty of berries for fresh eating with some left over for freezing or jam.
If you're growing in raised beds, plan for at least 3-4 feet of bed width to accommodate spreading canes.
Planting Steps
Prepare the soil: Dig a trench 12-18 inches deep and incorporate several inches of compost. Don't add high-nitrogen fertilizer at planting time.
Inspect your plants: For bare-root plants, soak roots in water for a few hours before planting. Trim any broken or damaged roots.
Plant at the right depth: Set plants at the same depth they grew in the nursery. You should be able to see where the soil line was on the canes.
Water thoroughly: Give plants a deep soaking after planting to settle soil around roots and eliminate air pockets.
Mulch: Apply 2-3 inches of wood chips, straw, or other organic mulch around plants (but not piled against canes) to retain moisture and suppress weeds.
Cut back canes: After planting bare-root raspberries, cut canes back to 6-12 inches. This encourages root development rather than top growth.
Trellising Your Raspberries
While raspberries can grow without support, trellising makes everything easier: harvesting, pruning, pest management, and air circulation.
UC ANR and UC Master Gardeners describe several trellis options:
Simple Two-Wire Trellis
The most common home garden system uses posts at each end of the row with two wires stretched between them:
Lower wire: About 2 feet high
Upper wire: About 4 feet high
Posts: Sturdy 4x4s or metal T-posts, set at least 2 feet deep
As canes grow, tie or weave them to the wires for support. This keeps canes upright, improves light penetration, and makes harvesting much easier.
T-Trellis
A T-shaped crossbar at the top of each post allows two parallel wires at the same height. Canes grow up between the wires and are supported from both sides. This works well for vigorous varieties that produce lots of canes.
Fence-Line System
If you have an existing fence, you can train raspberries along it. This works best with chain-link or wire fencing where you can tie canes as needed.
We cover trellis construction and cane training in detail in our How to Prune Raspberries guide.
Watering and Feeding
Consistent moisture is critical for raspberry success, especially in Santa Cruz County's dry summers.
Watering
UC Master Gardeners emphasize that raspberries should not be allowed to dry out deeply during active growth and fruiting. At the same time, they're susceptible to root diseases in waterlogged soil.
The solution is deep, infrequent watering rather than shallow, frequent irrigation:
Drip irrigation: The ideal system. Delivers water directly to roots, keeps foliage dry (reducing disease), and minimizes water waste.
Soaker hoses: A budget-friendly alternative that works well under mulch.
Avoid overhead sprinklers: Wet foliage encourages fungal diseases.
Greg Alder notes that in warmer parts of California, more frequent watering and afternoon shade are crucial. For Santa Cruz County gardeners in hotter microclimates, this advice applies: during heat waves, you may need to water every 2-3 days to prevent stress.
For most of the county, watering deeply once or twice per week during the dry season should be sufficient, adjusted based on weather and soil type.
Check current conditions on our Garden Conditions Dashboard for local watering guidance.
Fertilizing
UC guidance recommends a balanced fertilizer or organic feed in early spring, with possibly a light second application if growth appears weak.
A practical approach for home gardeners:
Late winter/early spring: Apply compost around plants (2-3 inch layer)
Early spring (March): Apply a balanced organic fertilizer according to package directions
Mid-season (if needed): A light feeding if plants look pale or growth is slow
Avoid heavy nitrogen feeding late in the season, which can promote soft growth that's susceptible to disease and cold damage.
Pruning Basics
Pruning is where many gardeners get confused, but it doesn't have to be complicated. The key is knowing what type of raspberry you're growing.
Primocane (Fall-Bearing) Varieties: Simple Approach
The easiest method: cut all canes to the ground in late winter (January-February). New primocanes will emerge in spring and produce fruit in late summer to fall.
This approach gives you one crop per year but offers major advantages:
No need to distinguish between primocane and floricane
Removes all disease and pest habitat
Opens up the planting for easy maintenance
Requires minimal skill or decision-making
Primocane Varieties: Two-Crop Approach
If you want both a fall crop and a smaller early-summer crop:
After fall harvest, leave the canes that fruited standing through winter
In early spring, cut the tips of those canes back to just below where they fruited
Those canes will produce a small early-summer crop as floricanes, then die
Meanwhile, new primocanes will produce your main fall crop
After the floricane crop finishes, remove those spent canes
This approach requires more attention but extends your harvest season.
Floricane (Summer-Bearing) Varieties
After harvest, remove canes that just fruited at ground level
Leave current-year primocanes in place (they'll fruit next year)
In late winter, thin primocanes to the strongest 4-6 per foot of row
Tip-prune remaining canes if they're taller than your trellis
We cover pruning techniques in complete detail (with visual guides) in our How to Prune Raspberries: A Step-by-Step Guide.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even in our favorable climate, raspberries can encounter issues. Here's what to watch for:
Yellow Leaves
UC Master Gardeners list several causes:
Overwatering or poor drainage: The most common cause. Check soil moisture and drainage.
Nutrient deficiency: Often iron chlorosis in alkaline soils. Correct with acidifying fertilizers or iron supplements.
Root disease: If drainage is good and nutrients are adequate, root rot may be present.
No Fruit
Possible causes include:
Wrong pruning: Cutting off all canes on a floricane variety eliminates next year's crop
Insufficient chill: Variety needs more winter cold than your location provides
Too much shade: Raspberries need good light to produce well
Young plants: First-year plantings often produce little fruit, especially floricane types
Cane Dieback
Canes that wilt, turn brown, or die back may indicate:
Cane blight: Fungal disease that enters through wounds. Practice good sanitation and avoid damaging canes.
Root rot: Check drainage and reduce watering if soil stays wet.
Borers: Insects that tunnel into canes. Remove and destroy affected canes.
Fruit Problems
Wormy fruit: Likely spotted wing drosophila (SWD), a serious pest in coastal California. Harvest frequently, refrigerate immediately, and consider exclusion netting.
Moldy fruit: Gray mold (botrytis) thrives in wet conditions. Improve air circulation, reduce overhead watering, harvest promptly.
Crumbly fruit: Often caused by poor pollination or virus. Remove affected plants if the problem persists.
For complete troubleshooting guidance, see our Raspberry Problems: Pests, Diseases, and Common Issues guide.
What to Expect Year by Year
Setting realistic expectations helps prevent discouragement in the early years.
| Year | What You'll See | Expected Harvest | Focus On |
|---|---|---|---|
| Year 1 | Modest cane growth as roots establish; 3 to 5 canes per plant typical | Primocane Small fall crop possible Floricane No fruit |
Establishment, consistent watering, weed control, mulching |
| Year 2 | Stronger growth, more canes (6 to 10 per plant); patch begins filling in | Primocane Good fall harvest Floricane First real summer crop |
Setting up trellis, beginning pruning routine |
| Years 3-5 | Full vigor, abundant canes, patch is established and spreading | Peak Production 1 to 2 quarts per foot of row possible | Annual pruning cycle, thinning excess canes, pest monitoring |
| Years 6-10 | Continued strong production with proper maintenance | Sustained yields; may see gradual decline without renovation | Replacing weak plants, maintaining soil health, disease prevention |
| Beyond 10 | May show declining vigor, increased disease, smaller berries | Variable; renovation or replanting may be needed | Consider starting new patch in fresh location |
Year 1
For bare-root plantings, expect modest growth as plants establish their root systems. Primocane varieties may produce a small fall crop. Floricane varieties typically won't fruit until year 2.
Focus on: Getting plants established, maintaining even moisture, preventing weed competition.
Year 2
You'll see noticeably more canes and stronger growth. Primocane varieties should produce a good fall crop. Floricane varieties will produce their first real harvest.
Focus on: Establishing pruning routine, thinning canes if crowded, setting up trellis if not already done.
Years 3-5
This is peak production time. With proper pruning and care, expect abundant harvests. The patch will be fully filled in and vigorous.
Focus on: Maintaining annual pruning cycle, watching for disease or decline, keeping up with irrigation and feeding.
Beyond Year 5
Raspberries can remain productive for 10-15 years or more with good care. If you notice declining vigor, increased disease, or smaller harvests:
Consider renovating the patch (removing and replacing struggling plants)
Check for virus symptoms (mottled leaves, crumbly fruit, stunted growth)
Test soil and adjust fertility program
For more on long-term raspberry care, see our Raspberry Growth Stages: What to Expect Year by Year guide.
Where to Get Plants and Local Resources
Local Nurseries
Many Santa Cruz County nurseries stock raspberry plants, especially during bare-root season (December-February). Call ahead to check availability:
San Lorenzo Garden Center (Santa Cruz)
Scarborough Gardens (Scotts Valley)
Sierra Azul Nursery (Watsonville, focus on natives but occasionally stocks berries)
Mail-Order Sources
For wider variety selection:
Raintree Nursery: Excellent selection and growing information
GrowOrganic/Peaceful Valley: Good organic options
One Green World: Unique varieties and good cold-climate selections
Getting Help
If you run into problems, these resources can help:
UC Master Gardeners of Santa Cruz County: Free gardening advice
UC Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County: Excellent caneberry resources (similar climate to ours)
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I grow raspberries in containers in Santa Cruz County? Yes, raspberries can do well in containers if you choose the right variety and provide adequate care. Primocane types are generally better for containers because they stay more compact. Use at least a 15-20 gallon container, high-quality potting mix, and plan for more frequent watering than in-ground plants. See our Growing Raspberries in Containers guide for complete details.
What's the best raspberry variety for foggy coastal areas? Primocane varieties like Caroline, Heritage, and Joan J work well in foggy coastal areas. They don't require as much chill as some floricane types, and their fall fruiting season takes advantage of our mild autumn weather. Caroline is particularly good for coastal gardens because it ripens earlier in the fall season.
When do raspberries produce fruit in Santa Cruz County? Timing depends on variety type. Summer-bearing (floricane) varieties typically fruit from late May through July. Fall-bearing (primocane) varieties produce from August through October or November, depending on weather. Some gardeners grow both types for extended harvest from late spring through fall.
How do I tell if my raspberry is primocane or floricane fruiting? Check the nursery tag for terms like "everbearing," "fall-bearing," or "primocane" (these all indicate primocane-fruiting). "Summer-bearing" or specific variety names like Willamette or Tulameen indicate floricane types. You can also observe: if canes that grew this spring produce fruit in late summer/fall, you have a primocane variety.
Why are my raspberry leaves turning yellow? Yellow leaves usually indicate a watering problem (too much or too little), poor drainage, or nutrient deficiency. First check soil moisture. If soil is staying wet, improve drainage or reduce watering. If soil is dry, increase irrigation. If moisture is right, try applying an acidifying fertilizer or iron supplement. Persistent yellowing despite good care may indicate root disease.
Do I need two raspberry plants for pollination? No, raspberries are self-fertile, so a single plant can produce fruit. However, most gardeners plant multiple canes in a row for better yields. Even with just one plant, you'll get berries (assuming it receives adequate sun and proper care).
How do I protect my raspberries from birds? Bird netting is the most effective solution. Install it over your trellis before fruit begins to ripen (typically mid-summer for floricane types, late summer for primocane types). Make sure netting reaches the ground or is secured so birds can't sneak underneath. Remove netting after harvest to allow easier pruning and maintenance.
What causes wormy raspberries and how do I prevent them? The most likely culprit is spotted wing drosophila (SWD), a small fly that lays eggs in ripening fruit. Prevention includes harvesting frequently (every 1-2 days when fruit is ripe), refrigerating berries immediately, removing fallen fruit, and potentially using fine mesh exclusion netting. Fall crops from primocane varieties often have less SWD pressure than summer crops.
Downloadable Guides
These free PDF resources will help you succeed with raspberries and other garden projects:
Seasonal Planting Calendar: Month-by-month guide to what to plant in Santa Cruz County, including berry planting windows.
Know Your Microclimate Worksheet: Identify your garden's specific conditions to choose the right raspberry varieties and site.
Garden Troubleshooting Guide: Diagnose common plant problems including those affecting berries.
Companion Planting Guide: Learn what to plant near your raspberries for best results.
Ready to Grow Raspberries?
Raspberries are one of the most rewarding fruits you can grow in Santa Cruz County. With our cool coastal climate, you're already ahead of gardeners in hotter parts of California. Choose varieties suited to your microclimate, give them good drainage and consistent water, and stay on top of basic pruning. You'll be harvesting sweet, homegrown berries for years to come.
Related Articles
Primocane vs Floricane Raspberries: Which Should You Grow in California? - Understanding the two fruiting types and which works best for your garden.
Best Raspberry Varieties for Santa Cruz County Gardens - Top-performing varieties matched to our local microclimates and conditions.
How to Prune Raspberries: A Step-by-Step Guide - Clear pruning instructions for both primocane and floricane types.
Growing Raspberries in Containers - How to grow productive raspberry plants in pots and small spaces.
Raspberry Growth Stages: What to Expect Year by Year - A timeline of raspberry development from planting to peak production.
Raspberry Problems: Pests, Diseases, and Common Issues - Diagnose and solve common raspberry growing challenges in California.
