Growing Broccoli Rabe, Collards & Brassica Greens in Santa Cruz
Beyond Basic Kale: Growing Broccoli Rabe, Collards, and Other Brassica Greens in Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz County's mild, fog-influenced climate allows you to grow brassica greens nearly year-round, an advantage that gardeners in most of the country simply do not have. According to UC ANR, leafy brassicas are among the most productive and nutritious crops for California's coastal gardens, with some varieties tolerating both light frost and moderate heat without bolting. If your experience with brassica greens begins and ends with curly kale, you are missing out on an entire family of flavorful, easy-to-grow crops that deserve space in your Santa Cruz garden.
The Brassicaceae family includes dozens of leafy green crops beyond the familiar kale, broccoli, and cabbage. Many of these "other" brassicas are staples in cuisines around the world but remain underrepresented in American home gardens. They share similar growing requirements (cool weather, fertile soil, consistent moisture) but each brings a unique flavor, texture, and culinary use to the table.
What Is Broccoli Rabe and How Do You Grow It?
Broccoli rabe (also called rapini, cime di rapa, or broccoli raab) is not actually broccoli. It is a completely different species (Brassica rapa) more closely related to turnips. The edible parts are the tender leaves, stems, and small flower buds, which have a distinctly bitter, peppery, and nutty flavor that is central to Italian cooking.
If you have ever ordered orecchiette con cime di rapa at an Italian restaurant, you know this vegetable. Blanched briefly to tame the bitterness, then sauteed with garlic, olive oil, and red pepper flakes, broccoli rabe is one of the great pleasures of the cool-season kitchen.
Growing Broccoli Rabe in Santa Cruz County
When to plant: Broccoli rabe is a fast crop (40 to 60 days from seed to harvest) that bolts quickly in warm weather. In Santa Cruz County, plant it: - Spring: Direct-sow February through March for April through May harvest. - Fall: Direct-sow September through October for October through December harvest. - Winter (coastal zones): Direct-sow November through December for January through February harvest in mild areas.
Fall is the best season because cooling temperatures slow bolting and produce the most tender growth.
How to plant: Direct sow seeds 1/4 inch deep, spaced 2 to 3 inches apart in rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Thin to 4 to 6 inches apart when seedlings have 3 to 4 true leaves. Broccoli rabe does not transplant well, so direct sowing is strongly preferred (UC Master Gardener Program of Sonoma County).
Care: Keep soil consistently moist. Broccoli rabe is a light to moderate feeder and does not need the heavy fertilization that heading brassicas require. Side-dress with compost or a light application of fish emulsion at the halfway point.
Harvesting: Cut the entire plant when the flower buds are visible but before the yellow flowers open. You can also harvest by cutting individual shoots with buds, leaving the base to regrow for a second cutting. Once yellow flowers appear, the plant is past its prime (though the flowers are edible and peppery).
Santa Cruz advantage: Our fog belt allows spring-planted broccoli rabe to grow for weeks longer than it would in warmer areas, because the cool marine air delays bolting. Fall and winter plantings thrive in our mild conditions.
Succession Planting for Continuous Harvest
Because broccoli rabe goes from seed to table so quickly, succession planting every 2 to 3 weeks keeps a continuous supply coming. A 4-foot row produces enough for several meals, so small, frequent plantings work better than one large sowing.
How Do You Grow Collard Greens in Santa Cruz County?
Collard greens (Brassica oleracea var. viridis) are a Southern cooking staple that deserve far more attention in California gardens (UC Master Gardeners of Santa Clara County). They are among the most heat-tolerant and cold-tolerant brassicas, handling temperatures from the low 20s to the mid-80s without serious complaint. In Santa Cruz County, collards can produce tender leaves for 8 to 10 months of the year.
Collards have large, smooth, blue-green leaves with a mild, slightly sweet flavor that is less bitter than kale and less sulfurous than cabbage. They are nutritional powerhouses, high in calcium, vitamins A, C, and K, and fiber.
Best Collard Varieties for Santa Cruz
Georgia Southern (also called Creole): The classic Southern collard. Large, blue-green leaves on plants that grow 2 to 3 feet tall. Very heat-tolerant and cold-tolerant. Matures in about 75 to 80 days from seed but can be harvested earlier as individual leaves.
Vates: A more compact variety (18 to 24 inches tall) with slightly crinkled, dark green leaves. Better for smaller gardens and containers. Excellent cold hardiness.
Champion: A vigorous hybrid with large, tender leaves and good bolt resistance. Matures in about 60 to 75 days. If you want the largest, most tender leaves, Champion is a strong choice.
Planting and Care
When to plant: In Santa Cruz County, you can plant collards from February through September for a harvest that spans from spring through winter. - Spring planting: Start seeds indoors in January, transplant in March. Or direct-sow in March. - Fall planting: Direct-sow July through August for fall and winter harvest. - Collards are so temperature-tolerant that precise timing is less critical than for heading brassicas.
Spacing: 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 24 to 30 inches apart. Collard plants get larger than most gardeners expect.
Care: Consistent moisture and moderate fertility. Side-dress with nitrogen every 4 to 6 weeks during the growing season. Mulch to maintain soil moisture.
Harvesting: Harvest individual outer leaves as they reach 10 to 12 inches long, leaving the central growing point to produce new leaves. This cut-and-come-again approach keeps a single plant productive for months. In Santa Cruz County's mild climate, a spring-planted collard can produce through the following winter, a harvest span of nearly a year from a single plant.
Frost benefits: Like other brassicas, collards taste sweeter after a light frost. Our mild coastal frosts are ideal for enhancing flavor without damaging the plant.
What About Growing Kohlrabi in Santa Cruz?
Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea var. gongylodes) is one of the strangest-looking vegetables in the garden: a swollen, above-ground stem that resembles a pale green or purple turnip perched on a tangle of leaves. Its flavor is mild, sweet, and crisp, somewhere between broccoli stem and a mild apple. It is wonderful raw (sliced thin in salads or cut into sticks for dipping), roasted, or added to slaws.
Kohlrabi is fast-growing (45 to 60 days from seed), compact, and well-suited to Santa Cruz County's cool conditions. For a detailed growing guide, see our full article on growing kohlrabi in Santa Cruz County.
Quick Kohlrabi Tips for Santa Cruz
- Direct-sow or transplant in spring (February through April) or fall (August through October).
- Space 6 to 8 inches apart. Kohlrabi is compact and works well in tight spaces and containers.
- Harvest when the bulb is 2 to 3 inches across (about tennis-ball size). Larger bulbs become woody and fibrous.
- Both purple and green varieties taste the same; the color is only skin deep.
How Do You Grow Turnip Greens?
Turnips (Brassica rapa var. rapa) are typically grown for their roots, but the greens are at least as valuable in the kitchen. Turnip greens have a mild, slightly peppery flavor and a tender texture that cooks quickly. They are a staple of Southern cooking and are excellent sauteed, braised, or added to soups.
In Santa Cruz County, you can grow turnips specifically for their greens with a few adjustments:
Varieties for greens: 'Seven Top' is a variety bred specifically for leaf production, with small, inedible roots and abundant, tender greens. 'Shogoin' produces good greens and a usable root. If you want both greens and roots, 'Purple Top White Globe' is the classic dual-purpose variety.
When to plant: Direct-sow February through April for spring harvest, or August through October for fall and winter harvest. Turnip greens bolt quickly in heat, so fall planting is more reliable for sustained production.
How to plant: Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep, scattered or in rows 12 to 18 inches apart. For greens only, you can sow more thickly than you would for root production and begin harvesting baby greens at 3 to 4 weeks.
Harvesting: Cut outer leaves when they are 4 to 8 inches long, or harvest the entire plant as baby greens at 30 to 40 days. For a sustained harvest, cut leaves regularly and let the plant continue producing from the center.
Santa Cruz advantage: Our cool fall and winter conditions allow turnip greens to produce for months without bolting. A September sowing can provide greens through January in mild coastal areas.
What About Growing Mustard Greens?
Mustard greens (Brassica juncea) bring bold, spicy flavor to the brassica greens lineup. They range from mildly peppery to intensely hot, depending on variety and growing conditions. Cool weather produces milder greens; heat and drought stress intensify the flavor.
For a comprehensive growing guide, see our full article on growing mustard greens in Santa Cruz County. Here are the key points:
Best varieties for Santa Cruz: - Red Giant: Large, burgundy-red leaves with moderate spice. Beautiful in salads and stir-fries. - Tatsoi: Technically a mustard green (Brassica rapa var. narinosa), tatsoi forms compact rosettes of small, spoon-shaped dark green leaves with a mild, creamy flavor. One of the best salad greens you can grow. - Mizuna: Feathery, deeply cut leaves with a mild, slightly peppery flavor. Fast-growing and excellent for baby greens. - Green Wave: Intensely frilly, bright green leaves with moderate heat. Makes a dramatic salad green.
When to plant: Direct-sow September through March for the mildest, most tender greens. Summer-grown mustard greens tend to be intensely spicy and bolt quickly.
Harvesting: Cut-and-come-again for sustained production. Baby mustard greens (harvested at 3 to 4 inches) are much milder than mature leaves.
How Can You Grow Brassica Greens Year-Round in Santa Cruz County?
One of the greatest advantages of our coastal climate is the ability to grow some type of brassica green in every month of the year. Here is a month-by-month guide:
January through February: Harvest overwintered collards, kale, and turnip greens. Direct-sow broccoli rabe and mustard greens for spring harvest. Start collard and kale transplants indoors.
March through April: Transplant collards and kale. Direct-sow turnip greens, mustard greens, broccoli rabe, and kohlrabi. Harvest spring broccoli rabe and baby mustard greens.
May through June: Harvest spring-planted crops. Collards and kale continue producing. Some mustard greens and broccoli rabe may bolt as temperatures rise; harvest promptly. This is the transition period.
July through August: Direct-sow fall turnip greens, mustard greens, and broccoli rabe. Transplant collards for fall and winter production. Start kale transplants. Existing collard and kale plants from spring continue producing (they handle our mild summers).
September through October: Peak fall planting season. Direct-sow broccoli rabe, mustard greens, and turnip greens. Transplant kale and collards. Begin harvesting fall crops.
November through December: Harvest fall-planted greens. Overwintered collards and kale hit their stride, with frost-sweetened flavor. Sow broccoli rabe in mild coastal areas for winter harvest.
The key crops for year-round production are collards and kale (UC Master Gardener Program of Sonoma County), both of which tolerate our mild summers and produce even better during our cool winters. Supplement them with fast-growing greens like broccoli rabe, turnip greens, and mustard greens in the spring and fall windows.
What Pests and Diseases Affect Brassica Greens?
Brassica greens face the same pest complex as their heading cousins, with a few differences:
Aphids: The number one pest of brassica greens. Aphids colonize the undersides of leaves and in the curled centers of growing plants. Regular inspection, strong water sprays, and encouraging beneficial insects are the primary controls. Because you eat the leaves directly (unlike heading crops where outer leaves are discarded), aphid management is especially important for greens.
Flea beetles: Tiny black beetles that chew small, round holes in leaves, creating a "shotgun" pattern. They are most active in warm, dry weather and primarily attack seedlings and young transplants. Row covers protect young plants during the vulnerable establishment period. UC IPM notes that flea beetles are most damaging to seedlings and become less of a concern as plants mature.
Cabbage worms and loopers: Same caterpillar pests as heading brassicas. Row covers and Bt are effective controls.
Slugs and snails: Particularly fond of tender greens, especially in our moist coastal climate. Iron phosphate bait and evening hand-picking are effective.
Downy mildew: Can affect any brassica green, particularly in our foggy conditions. Yellow patches on leaf tops with gray-purple fuzz underneath. Good air circulation, drip irrigation, and prompt removal of affected leaves help manage this disease.
For a comprehensive guide, see our article on brassica pests and diseases in Santa Cruz County.
What Are the Nutritional Benefits of Brassica Greens?
Brassica greens are among the most nutrient-dense foods you can grow. The UC Davis Department of Nutrition highlights cruciferous vegetables as exceptionally rich in vitamins, minerals, fiber, and health-protective phytochemicals.
A quick nutritional comparison (per one cup cooked):
- Collard greens: 770% daily value vitamin K, 58% vitamin A, 35% vitamin C, 27% calcium.
- Turnip greens: 662% daily value vitamin K, 61% vitamin A, 66% vitamin C.
- Mustard greens: 524% daily value vitamin K, 118% vitamin A, 59% vitamin C.
- Broccoli rabe: 256% daily value vitamin K, 43% vitamin A, 16% vitamin C, plus good folate.
All brassica greens contain glucosinolates, the sulfur-containing compounds that give them their characteristic flavor and that researchers have studied extensively for potential health benefits.
Growing your own brassica greens means harvesting at peak nutrition. UC Davis postharvest research consistently shows that leafy greens lose vitamins rapidly after harvest, with significant vitamin C declines within the first 24 to 48 hours. Garden-to-table greens deliver maximum nutritional value.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is broccoli rabe the same thing as broccolini?
No, they are different vegetables. Broccoli rabe (rapini) is Brassica rapa, related to turnips, with small flower buds, leaves, and stems that taste distinctly bitter and peppery. Broccolini is a hybrid cross between broccoli (Brassica oleracea) and Chinese broccoli (gai lan), with longer stems, small florets, and a milder, sweeter flavor. Both grow well in Santa Cruz County, but they require different approaches and have very different flavors.
Can I grow collard greens through the summer in Santa Cruz County?
Yes. Collards are remarkably heat-tolerant for a brassica, handling temperatures into the mid-80s without bolting. In Santa Cruz County, where summer highs rarely exceed the mid-70s in coastal zones, collards grow comfortably through the entire summer. They may grow more slowly during the warmest weeks, but they will not bolt or decline. Keep them watered, side-dress with nitrogen every 4 to 6 weeks, and harvest outer leaves regularly.
How do I reduce the bitterness in broccoli rabe?
Blanching broccoli rabe in boiling, salted water for 60 to 90 seconds before sauteing reduces bitterness significantly. Drain, shock in ice water, then saute with garlic and olive oil. Growing broccoli rabe in cool weather (fall and winter) also produces milder-flavored greens. Harvesting before the buds open ensures the mildest flavor. If you enjoy bitter greens, harvest later and skip the blanching step.
What is the easiest brassica green for a beginner?
Collard greens are the easiest brassica green to grow. They tolerate a wide temperature range, have few pest problems (fewer than kale or mustard greens), produce for months from a single planting, and are forgiving of inconsistent care. Tatsoi is another excellent beginner choice: it grows quickly (30 to 45 days), has mild flavor, forms tidy rosettes, and handles both cool and mildly warm conditions well.
Can I grow tatsoi and mizuna in containers?
Both tatsoi and mizuna are excellent container crops. Use a pot at least 12 inches in diameter and 8 to 10 inches deep. Both grow as compact rosettes or loose clumps that fit perfectly in containers on patios, balconies, and windowsills. Sow seeds directly in the container, thin to 4 to 6 inches apart, and begin harvesting outer leaves at 3 to 4 weeks. In Santa Cruz County, container-grown tatsoi and mizuna can produce through fall, winter, and spring.
Do turnip greens taste like turnips?
Turnip greens have a mild, slightly peppery flavor that is related to but distinct from the turnip root flavor. The greens are much milder and less earthy than the root. Young turnip greens (harvested at 4 to 6 inches) are particularly mild and tender. If you find mature turnip greens too strong, try harvesting them younger or cooking them briefly with a splash of vinegar or lemon juice, which mellows the flavor.
The brassica greens family offers Santa Cruz County gardeners an extraordinary range of flavors, textures, and culinary possibilities. From the bold bitterness of broccoli rabe to the mellow sweetness of collard greens, from the crisp snap of kohlrabi to the peppery kick of mustard, these crops fill your garden and your kitchen year-round. Our coastal climate gives us the rare ability to grow brassica greens in every season, so there is never a wrong time to plant something new.
For more growing guides and California garden resources, including our comprehensive guide to growing greens in California, visit Your Garden Toolkit or sign up for our weekly newsletter.
