What to Plant in Santa Cruz & the Bay Area in July
July is peak heat and peak harvest in Santa Cruz County - tomatoes are ripening, squash is producing like crazy, and temperatures are at their highest. Inland and mountain areas regularly hit 90-100°F, while even coastal areas warm up.
But here's what many gardeners miss: July is also a CRITICAL planting month for fall and winter crops. If you want to eat from your garden October through April, July is when you set that up.
Why July Heat Matters for Fall Planting
July is often our hottest month:
Sunny mountain areas (Boulder Creek ridges, Ben Lomond chaparral, Scotts Valley hills): 90-100°F+ regularly, very hot and dry
Under redwoods (Felton canyons, shaded areas): 75-85°F, cooler but still warm
Inland valleys (Scotts Valley, Soquel): 85-95°F
Coastal (Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz): 70-80°F, moderated by marine layer
Watsonville/Pajaro Valley: 80-95°F, agricultural heat
You're planting cool-season crops (brassicas, greens) in peak heat. They'll establish slowly now, then take off when temperatures cool in October/November.
Direct Seed These in July
Late Summer Crops
Beans (bush varieties - succession plant for fall harvest in all areas)
Summer squash (early July in warm microclimates)
Winter squash (early-mid July in warm microclimates - hardier than cucumbers)
Corn (early July in warm microclimates for fall harvest)
Basil (last chance before focusing on fall)
Can you plant tomatoes in July? YES - in warm sunny microclimates (Boulder Creek ridges, Ben Lomond chaparral, Watsonville)!
Plant fast-maturing varieties (60-70 days) like 'Early Girl', 'Stupice', 'Fourth of July', 'Sungold'
Use transplants, not seeds
They'll produce September/October/November
Coastal areas: skip it, not enough heat/time
Skip late planting:
Peppers (too slow to establish and produce)
Melons (too frost-sensitive, need early start)
Cucumbers (too frost-sensitive)
Fall/Winter Crops
Beets
Carrots
Radishes
Turnips
Lettuce (heat-tolerant varieties early month, shade required; standard varieties late month)
Arugula (late July better than early)
Spinach (late July)
Chard
Peas (late July in coastal areas only for fall harvest)
Herbs for Fall
Cilantro (finally! It won't bolt in fall temps)
Dill
Parsley
Transplant These in July
Fall Brassicas (started indoors in June):
Broccoli (needs afternoon shade now, will thrive in fall)
Cauliflower
Cabbage
Kale
Collards
Brussels sprouts (early July for winter harvest)
Kohlrabi
Give all brassica transplants afternoon shade and consistent water until temperatures moderate.
Start Seeds Indoors in July
Keep the pipeline going:
More brassicas (for August/September transplanting)
Lettuce (for transplanting when it's cooler)
What to Harvest in July
Peak abundance:
Tomatoes (all varieties - peak season!)
Peppers (hot and sweet)
Cucumbers
Summer squash and zucchini
Beans (if succession planted)
Eggplant
Basil (trim heavily to prevent flowering)
Melons (in warm areas)
Berries (late blackberries)
Early stone fruits
July Garden Tasks
Start or transplant fall brassicas (with shade and water!)
Direct seed fall root vegetables and greens (late July better for most)
Succession plant beans for fall harvest (warm microclimates)
Harvest constantly - daily for some crops
Water deeply - July is the DRIEST month
Mulch heavily to conserve every drop
Shade new plantings of cool-season crops
Watch for pests (aphids, tomato hornworms, gophers)
Pull spent spring crops to make room
Side-dress tomatoes and peppers with compost
Microclimate-Specific Advice
Coastal (Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz beaches, Live Oak): You have it easiest for July planting. Marine layer keeps temps 70-80°F. You can direct seed cool-season crops with less drama than inland areas. Your summer crops are still producing well. Good conditions for starting fall garden.
San Lorenzo Valley & Scotts Valley - Sunny Ridges/Chaparral (Boulder Creek mountains, Ben Lomond sunny exposures, Scotts Valley hills): You're HOT - 90-100°F+ regularly. Summer crops are thriving. For fall plantings, shade is essential. Plant brassicas in areas that will get afternoon shade. Direct seed greens late in month. Water everything deeply and frequently. Your big temperature swings (hot days, cooler nights) actually help brassicas establish.
San Lorenzo Valley & Scotts Valley - Under Redwoods (Felton canyons, Ben Lomond shaded areas): 75-85°F - still warm but much better than sunny areas. This is actually ideal for starting fall crops! Your shade is now an advantage. Plant greens and brassicas - they'll be happy. Just watch for adequate sun - you still need 4-6 hours for most crops.
Inland Valleys (Soquel hills, inland Santa Cruz): 85-95°F, hot. Similar to sunny mountain areas. Shade fall plantings. Wait until late July for most cool-season direct seeding. Summer crops are peak.
Watsonville/Pajaro Valley: 80-95°F, agricultural heat. Excellent for summer crops. For fall plantings, wait until late July or provide serious shade. You have the advantage of being able to succession plant summer crops later than other areas.
Common July Questions
Can I still plant tomatoes? YES - if you're in a warm sunny microclimate (Boulder Creek ridges/chaparral, Ben Lomond sunny areas, Watsonville):
Plant fast-maturing varieties (60-70 days): 'Early Girl', 'Stupice', 'Fourth of July', 'Sungold'
Use transplants, not seeds
They'll produce in September/October/November
In coastal/cooler areas: skip it, not enough heat and time
Isn't it too hot to plant brassicas? Yes, which is why you start them indoors or give transplants serious afternoon shade. They won't start forming heads until fall. You're establishing plants now for October-February harvests.
Why plant fall crops when I'm drowning in summer vegetables? Because brassicas need 60-100 days to mature. Plant them in July = harvest November-February. Wait until September = many won't mature before winter slows growth.
My cool-season seeds won't germinate! July soil temps are 70-80°F+, too hot for lettuce and some greens. Solutions:
Pre-sprout seeds indoors
Plant in afternoon shade
Water to cool soil before planting
Wait until late July
Coastal gardeners have easier germination
Can I still plant tomatoes? No. Even in the warmest microclimate, July-planted tomatoes won't have time to mature before fall. Focus on fall crops.
Heat Management Strategies
You're planting cool-season crops in peak heat. Make it work:
For transplants:
Give afternoon shade (use shade cloth or plant near taller crops)
Water deeply morning AND evening for first week
Mulch immediately
Harden off gradually
For direct seeding:
Water soil before planting to cool it
Plant in afternoon shade
Cover with shade cloth
Keep soil consistently moist (not waterlogged)
Expect slower germination than spring
For established summer crops:
Deep watering 2-3x per week minimum
Heavy mulch (4-6 inches)
Harvest frequently to keep plants producing
The July Mindset
July is about simultaneous abundance and planning:
Abundance:
Peak harvest of summer crops
Maximum water needs
Daily garden visits
Preserving excess (freeze, can, dry)
Planning:
Starting fall brassicas
Seeding fall greens
Preparing beds for cool season
Managing heat stress on new plantings
July is exhausting but essential. The work you do now determines winter harvests.
Water-Wise July
July is our driest month. Every drop counts:
Mulch everything - 4-6 inches, especially new plantings
Water deeply, less often - roots go deep
Water early morning - less evaporation
Drip irrigation is essential in July
Group by water needs - don't water drought-tolerant herbs like summer squash
Check soil moisture before watering
Don't Skip July Planting
It's tempting to coast in July - harvests are abundant, it's hot, watering is demanding. But skip July planting and you'll have an empty garden in December.
Plant now for fall and winter abundance!
