The Santa Cruz Banana Belt: Gardening in the County's Goldilocks Microclimate
If you live in the stretch between Capitola and Aptos - especially in the hills just inland from the coast - you've stumbled into one of Santa Cruz County's best-kept gardening secrets: the Banana Belt.
This narrow zone combines the best of coastal and inland conditions: mild winters with minimal frost, warm (but not extreme) summers, good sunshine without the daily marine layer, and stable temperatures that make year-round gardening not just possible but easy.
While coastal Santa Cruz deals with persistent summer fog and inland areas swing between 100°F days and 40°F nights, you're sitting in the sweet spot. Your peppers ripen. Your tomatoes produce reliably. Your citrus survives winter. And frost is rare enough that you barely think about it.
This is the Banana Belt, and it's gardening on easy mode.
What Is the Banana Belt?
The term "Banana Belt" refers to an unusually warm microclimate within a generally cooler region. In Santa Cruz County, it's the zone that enjoys:
Geographic Location:
Capitola Village and hills
Soquel (especially hillsides)
Aptos Village and hills above
Live Oak (parts, especially inland from beach)
Rio Del Mar hills
La Selva Beach inland areas
The Magic Zone: Roughly 1/4 to 1 mile inland from the coast, at elevations of 100-400 feet. Far enough from the ocean to escape daily fog, close enough to benefit from marine temperature moderation.
What Creates the Banana Belt?
Several factors converge to create these favored conditions:
1. Elevation Above the Marine Layer
The fog stops below you:
Marine layer typically sits at 0-200 feet elevation
Banana Belt areas sit at 100-400 feet
You're literally above the fog most days
Morning sun arrives earlier than down at the beach
What this means:
More sunshine hours than coastal areas
Warmer daytime temperatures
Better fruit ripening
Longer effective growing days
2. Marine Temperature Moderation (Without the Fog)
Close enough to benefit, far enough to escape:
Ocean moderates temperature extremes
Winter lows rarely below 35-40°F
Summer highs moderate (75-85°F, not 95-100°F)
Stable, predictable temperatures
What this means:
Minimal frost risk (maybe 1-2 nights per year)
No extreme heat
Extended growing season
Year-round gardening possible
3. South-Facing Slopes
Many Banana Belt areas are on south-facing hillsides:
Maximum sun exposure
Warm faster in spring
Stay warmer in fall
Good drainage (slopes)
Heat accumulation and retention
What this means:
Longer warm-season growing
Earlier spring planting
Later fall harvests
Better ripening of heat-loving crops
4. Protection from Coastal Wind
Hillsides provide wind breaks:
Less onshore wind than beach areas
Warmer, more sheltered
Less salt spray
Better for tender plants
How the Banana Belt Compares
Banana Belt vs. Coastal Beach Areas (Capitola beach, Aptos beach)
You have:
More sun (less fog)
Warmer temps (5-10°F warmer in summer)
Better fruit ripening
Less wind
Longer season
They have:
Even more stable temps (less swing)
Easier summer lettuce growing
No heat stress
Practical difference: Beach areas struggle to ripen tomatoes and peppers. You don't.
Banana Belt vs. Inland Mountains (Boulder Creek, Ben Lomond sunny)
You have:
More stable temps (no 30-degree day/night swings)
Easier cool-season growing (less heat stress)
Less extreme conditions
Minimal frost risk
They have:
Much more heat (90-100°F+ summer days)
Longer warm-season (tomatoes to Thanksgiving)
Can grow long-season heirlooms
Extended fall season
Practical difference: They can grow heirloom tomatoes coastal areas can't. You can grow reliable tomatoes without their temperature extremes.
Banana Belt vs. Watsonville/Pajaro Valley
You have:
Better marine moderation (cooler summer days)
Hillside advantages (drainage, sun exposure)
Less agricultural development
Slightly earlier spring (southern exposure)
They have:
More heat (good for melons, eggplant)
Longer season overall
Better agricultural infrastructure
Flatter land (easier to work)
Practical difference: Similar growing conditions, but you have hillside microclimates and they have valley floor agricultural advantages.
What Thrives in the Banana Belt
Your Sweet Spot Crops
Tomatoes (Almost Everything Works)
Early varieties: April planting, July-October harvest
Mid-season hybrids: 'Big Beef', 'Better Boy', 'Celebrity'
Some heirlooms: 'Brandywine' can ripen in good years
Cherry tomatoes: 'Sungold', 'Sweet 100' (reliable)
You're not as hot as sunny mountains, but you're warm enough for good tomato production. And you're not as cool as the beach, so varieties actually ripen.
Peppers (Sweet and Hot)
Sweet bells: 'California Wonder', 'Jimmy Nardello'
Hot peppers: Jalapeño, serrano (good production)
Better success than coastal areas
Reliable ripening
Citrus (The Banana Belt Specialty) This is what the "Banana Belt" name is really about - citrus!
Lemons: 'Eureka', 'Meyer' (thrives, nearly frost-free)
Limes: 'Bearss', 'Kaffir' (good in protected spots)
Oranges: 'Washington Navel', 'Cara Cara' (possible in warmest spots)
Mandarins: 'Satsuma', 'Clementine' (excellent)
Kumquats: (very reliable)
Frost-sensitive citrus that fails elsewhere in the county can work here.
Avocados (Borderline but Possible) In the warmest Banana Belt spots with frost protection:
'Bacon' (most cold-hardy)
'Fuerte' (fairly hardy)
'Hass' (needs warmest spots and protection)
Requires frost protection in coldest winters, but worth trying in favored microclimates.
Strawberries
Excellent conditions
Plant September-November
Harvest March-October
Commercial-quality production
Artichokes
Perennial, excellent production
Loves your mild winters and cool summers
'Green Globe', 'Imperial Star'
Year-Round Greens
Lettuce (nearly year-round possible)
Kale, chard (continuous)
Arugula, spinach (fall-spring)
Asian greens (cool months)
Berries
Blueberries (with soil amendment for acidity)
Raspberries (good production)
Blackberries (vigorous, can be invasive)
Mediterranean Herbs & Perennials
Rosemary (thrives year-round)
Lavender (loves your conditions)
Sage, thyme, oregano (all excellent)
Bay laurel (as shrub or tree)
Subtropical Fruits (In Warmest Spots)
Passion fruit (some success)
Kiwi (hardy kiwi and regular)
Feijoa (pineapple guava)
Fig (excellent)
Persimmon (very good)
What Still Struggles
Long-Season Heirlooms (80+ days) You're close, but:
'Brandywine' may ripen in warm years
'Cherokee Purple' borderline
Better to stick with 60-75 day varieties
Heat-Loving Tropicals Not quite warm enough for:
Melons (possible but less reliable than Watsonville)
Eggplant (okay but not stellar)
Okra (too cool)
Cold-Hardy Crops Needing Vernalization You're too mild for:
Some apple varieties needing high chill hours
Crops requiring hard winter cold
Banana Belt Growing Calendar
Winter (December-February)
Temperatures: 40s-60s, rare frost
Direct seed: greens, peas, fava beans
Transplant: cool-season starts, onions
Harvest: winter greens, brassicas, citrus
Protect: citrus if frost forecasted (rare)
Spring (March-May)
Temperatures: 50s-70s, warming
Direct seed: cool-season crops early, warm-season late
Transplant: tomatoes (April), peppers (May)
Harvest: cool-season crops, strawberries
Start: summer garden
Summer (June-August)
Temperatures: 65-85°F, warm but moderate
Direct seed: beans (succession), basil
Harvest: tomatoes, peppers, summer squash, berries
Maintain: water 2-3x per week, side-dress
Plant: fall brassicas (late summer)
Fall (September-November)
Temperatures: 60s-70s, mild
Direct seed: cool-season crops for winter
Transplant: fall brassicas, strawberries
Harvest: late tomatoes (often through October), peppers
Plant: garlic (October)
Banana Belt Growing Strategies
Take Advantage of Your Mild Winters
Citrus is your signature crop:
Plant Meyer lemon (most reliable)
Protect from rare frost with fabric covers
Harvest fresh citrus year-round
This is what makes you special
Year-round cool-season growing:
Succession plant lettuce every 2-3 weeks
Keep kale and chard producing continuously
Winter garden is productive, not dormant
Frost protection is minimal:
Maybe 1-2 nights per year need protection
Row covers for tender crops
Fabric over citrus on cold nights
Most years, you don't need any protection
Maximize Your Growing Season
Earlier spring start:
Plant tomatoes in April (not May)
Earlier warm-season transplanting than true coastal
South-facing slopes warm first
Extended fall harvest:
Tomatoes often through October
Peppers into November in good years
Longer than beach areas
Mediterranean crops thrive:
Rosemary, lavender, sage grow huge
Drought-tolerant once established
Perfect conditions for these
Work With Your Moderate Summers
Not as hot as inland, warmer than beach:
You're in the middle zone
Mid-season tomato varieties work best (60-75 days)
Some heirlooms possible, but hybrids more reliable
Cool-season crops can be pushed into early summer
Sun exposure matters:
South and west-facing areas warmest
North-facing areas cooler (better for summer greens)
Create microclimates within your microclimate
Identifying Banana Belt Microclimates
You're Probably in the Banana Belt If:
You're 1/4 to 1 mile inland from the coast
Elevation 100-400 feet
On a hillside or slope (especially south-facing)
Fog burns off by 9-10am most summer mornings
Winter lows rarely below 35-40°F
Summer highs rarely above 85°F
Neighbors have citrus trees that produce
You're in Capitola hills, Soquel, Aptos hills, or Live Oak inland
You're Probably NOT in the Banana Belt If:
Right on the beach (too foggy)
In a valley bottom (cold air sinks, more frost)
North-facing slope only (less sun, cooler)
Under dense redwood canopy (too shaded, too cool)
Above 500 feet elevation (getting into mountain zone)
Microclimate Variations Within the Banana Belt
Even within the Banana Belt, conditions vary:
Warmest spots:
South-facing slopes
Protected from wind
Elevations 200-300 feet
Full sun exposure
Plant: Citrus, avocados (with protection), heat-lovers
Moderate spots:
Mixed sun/shade
Some wind exposure
Elevations 100-200 or 300-400 feet
Plant: Tomatoes, peppers, most vegetables
Cooler spots:
North-facing
More wind
Lower elevations (more fog)
Plant: Cool-season crops, fog-tolerant varieties
Recommended Varieties for Banana Belt
Tomatoes
Best choices:
'Celebrity' (70 days) - reliable hybrid
'Early Girl' (52 days) - safe bet
'Big Beef' (70 days) - good flavor
'Sungold' (57 days) - best cherry
'Better Boy' (70 days) - productive
Worth trying:
'Brandywine' (80-90 days) - warm years only
'Cherokee Purple' (80 days) - borderline
Citrus (Your Specialty!)
Most reliable:
'Meyer' lemon - nearly frost-proof
'Improved Meyer' lemon - sweeter than regular
'Bearss' lime - Persian lime type
'Satsuma' mandarin - very cold-hardy
Kumquat - very reliable
Good in warmest spots:
'Eureka' lemon
'Washington Navel' orange
'Cara Cara' orange (pink flesh)
'Clementine' mandarin
Peppers
'California Wonder' - sweet bell
'Jimmy Nardello' - sweet Italian
'Jalapeño' - hot, reliable
'Shishito' - mild, productive
Subtropical Fruits
Fig: 'Black Mission', 'Brown Turkey'
Persimmon: 'Fuyu', 'Hachiya'
Feijoa: 'Coolidge', 'Apollo'
Passion fruit: Frederick or standard
The Bottom Line
The Santa Cruz Banana Belt is the county's Goldilocks zone: not too hot, not too cool, not too foggy, not too dry. You have stable, moderate, favored conditions that make gardening easier than almost anywhere else in the county.
Your signature advantage is the ability to grow frost-sensitive plants (especially citrus) that fail elsewhere while still having reliable summers for tomatoes and peppers.
If you live here, take advantage:
Plant citrus (Meyer lemon is your signature crop)
Grow tomatoes and peppers reliably
Garden year-round with minimal frost worry
Try subtropical fruits in your warmest spots
Enjoy some of the best all-around growing conditions in Santa Cruz County
You're in the sweet spot. Use it.

