Composting for Santa Cruz County Gardeners: Turn Kitchen Scraps into Garden Gold
Whether you're growing tomatoes in sunny Boulder Creek or tending a shady plot under the redwoods in Felton, adding homemade compost improves your soil, reduces waste, and saves money on amendments. And you don't need a sprawling backyard to make it work. Apartment dwellers in downtown Santa Cruz, homeowners in Aptos with modest yards, and mountain gardeners with acres to spare can all find a composting method that fits their space and lifestyle.
This guide covers practical composting techniques that work in our Mediterranean climate, with its dry summers and wet winters. You'll learn which methods suit different living situations, how to troubleshoot common problems, and where to find local resources if you'd rather let someone else do the heavy lifting.
Why Composting Matters for Santa Cruz Gardens
Santa Cruz County gardeners face some unique soil challenges. Coastal areas often have sandy soil that drains too quickly and doesn't hold nutrients. Under the redwoods, soil tends toward acidic with heavy clay. Inland valleys vary wildly from plot to plot.
Compost helps with all of these issues. It adds organic matter that improves drainage in clay soils while helping sandy soils retain moisture. It buffers pH extremes and provides slow-release nutrients your plants can actually use.
| Soil type | Common problem | How compost helps | Example areas |
|---|---|---|---|
| Coastal sandy | Drains too fast and doesn’t hold nutrients | Increases water retention and adds organic matter | Aptos, Capitola, Live Oak |
| Redwood clay / acidic | Poor drainage, low pH, compacted soil | Improves structure, buffers acidity, adds air pockets | Felton, Ben Lomond canyons, Bonny Doon |
| Inland mixed | Variable drainage and moderate fertility | Balances moisture and boosts nutrient availability | Scotts Valley, Soquel, Watsonville |
Buying bagged compost works, but it gets expensive fast. A single 2-cubic-foot bag often costs $8 to $15 at local garden centers and barely covers a few square feet of garden bed. If you're building or refreshing raised beds, you could easily spend $100 or more on compost alone.
Making your own compost from kitchen scraps and yard waste costs almost nothing and keeps organic material out of the landfill. Santa Cruz County's food-scrap composting program diverts nearly 50,000 tons per year from the Buena Vista Landfill. Composting at home puts that waste to work in your garden instead.
Composting Methods for Every Space
Traditional Backyard Bins
If you have outdoor space (even a small corner of a patio or side yard), a traditional compost bin is the simplest option. You can build one from wooden pallets, buy a plastic bin from the hardware store, or use a simple wire enclosure.
Best for: Homeowners in Scotts Valley, Soquel, Aptos, and other areas with yard space.
How it works: Layer "green" nitrogen-rich materials (vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, fresh grass clippings) with "brown" carbon-rich materials (dried leaves, cardboard, straw). Keep the pile moist like a wrung-out sponge. Turn it occasionally to add air. In our climate, expect finished compost in 3 to 6 months.
Our dry summers mean you'll need to water your compost pile regularly from May through October. A spot with afternoon shade helps prevent the pile from drying out too quickly. Coastal gardeners in Capitola and Live Oak can get away with less watering thanks to summer fog.
Tumbler Composters
Tumblers are enclosed bins that rotate, making it easy to turn your compost without a pitchfork. They're tidier than open piles and keep pests out.
Best for: Gardeners who want faster results, those with limited mobility, or anyone dealing with rats or raccoons getting into open bins (common throughout the San Lorenzo Valley).
How it works: Add your greens and browns, close the lid, and spin the tumbler every few days. The enclosed design heats up faster than open piles, potentially producing finished compost in 4 to 8 weeks during warm weather.
San Lorenzo Garden Center in Santa Cruz and Mountain Feed & Farm Supply in Ben Lomond carry tumbler composters. City of Santa Cruz residents can get a $40 rebate on approved compost bins. Ace Hardware locations throughout the county stock basic models.
Worm Bins (Vermicomposting)
Worm composting uses red wiggler worms to break down food scraps in a contained bin. It's odorless when managed properly and works well indoors or in a garage.
Best for: Apartment dwellers, renters without yard access, anyone who generates mostly kitchen scraps rather than yard waste.
How it works: Red wiggler worms (not regular earthworms) live in bedding made from shredded newspaper or cardboard. You bury food scraps in the bedding, and the worms convert them into nutrient-rich castings. A properly maintained bin has no smell and can live under your kitchen sink or in a closet.
What worms can eat: Fruit and vegetable scraps, coffee grounds and filters, tea bags, crushed eggshells, small amounts of bread or pasta.
What to avoid: Meat, dairy, oily foods, citrus in large quantities, onions and garlic.
Our mild year-round temperatures are perfect for worm bins. Red wigglers thrive between 55°F and 77°F, which describes most Santa Cruz County garages and shaded outdoor spots. Avoid placing bins in direct sun during summer or in uninsulated spaces during our coldest winter nights.
The UC Master Gardeners of Monterey and Santa Cruz Counties sometimes host worm bin workshops where you can get started worms. Online suppliers like Uncle Jim's Worm Farm ship red wigglers directly to you.
Bokashi Fermentation
Bokashi is a Japanese method that ferments food waste (including meat and dairy) using special bran inoculated with beneficial microbes. It's not technically composting, but it accomplishes the same goal of recycling food waste.
Best for: Gardeners who want to compost meat, dairy, and cooked foods that can't go in traditional compost. Also good for apartment dwellers with limited space.
How it works: You layer food scraps with bokashi bran in an airtight bucket. The mixture ferments (rather than decomposes) over about two weeks. The fermented material then gets buried in soil or added to a traditional compost pile, where it breaks down rapidly.
The catch: Bokashi requires ongoing purchase of the inoculated bran, and the fermented output has a strong pickled smell. You'll still need a place to bury or further compost the fermented material.
Community Composting Options
Not ready to compost at home? Santa Cruz County offers alternatives.
Curbside green waste: Most areas accept food scraps in green waste bins. GreenWaste Recovery (the hauler for many Santa Cruz County areas) processes organics at the Buena Vista Landfill or through ReGen Monterey. Check their website for current guidelines on what's accepted.
Community gardens: Some community garden sites have shared compost systems. The Homeless Garden Project in Santa Cruz and various neighborhood gardens may accept contributions from members.
Drop-off sites: Periodically, the county hosts composting events. Check the Santa Cruz County Public Works website for current programs.
| Area | Program / benefit | Key details | More info |
|---|---|---|---|
| Unincorporated County | Free or reduced-cost bins | Complete an approved workshop to qualify for a free bin | County bin program |
| City of Santa Cruz | $40 rebate on bins | Purchase a city-approved compost or worm bin | City rebate program |
| All areas | Curbside organics | Food scraps and yard waste in the green cart | GreenWaste Recovery |
| All areas | Workshops | Free composting classes throughout the year | County workshops |
Building a Successful Compost Pile
Regardless of which method you choose, the same basic principles apply.
The Green and Brown Balance
Your compost needs both nitrogen-rich "greens" and carbon-rich "browns" to break down properly. Aim for roughly equal volumes of each (some sources say 2 to 3 parts brown to 1 part green by volume, but don't overthink it).
Greens (nitrogen sources):
Vegetable and fruit scraps
Coffee grounds and filters
Fresh grass clippings
Plant trimmings (not diseased)
Eggshells (technically neutral, but good for calcium)
Browns (carbon sources):
Dried leaves (abundant in fall from our oaks and maples)
Cardboard (torn into pieces, tape removed)
Newspaper (shredded)
Straw or hay
Wood chips (small amounts, breaks down slowly)
Dried plant stalks
What NOT to compost:
Meat, fish, and bones (attracts pests, can smell)
Dairy products (same issues)
Oily or greasy foods
Pet waste (disease risk)
Diseased plants (can spread pathogens)
Weeds with mature seeds (unless your pile gets hot enough to kill them)
Plants treated with herbicides
Moisture Management
Compost should feel like a wrung-out sponge: moist but not dripping wet.
In Santa Cruz County's wet winters, your pile may get too soggy. Cover it with a tarp or lid to shed excess rain. Waterlogged compost becomes anaerobic and smelly.
In our dry summers, you'll need to add water. When turning your pile, spray it down with a hose. An uncovered pile in Boulder Creek or Watsonville can dry out completely in a week of summer weather.
Airflow
Decomposition requires oxygen. Without air, your pile becomes anaerobic, which slows the process and creates unpleasant odors.
Turn your pile every few weeks with a pitchfork or shovel. If you're using a tumbler, spin it every few days. Worm bins don't need turning (the worms do the work), but you should fluff the bedding occasionally.
Adding coarse materials like small branches, straw, or crumpled cardboard helps create air pockets throughout the pile.
Size Matters
Compost piles need enough mass to heat up and decompose efficiently. A pile smaller than 3 feet by 3 feet by 3 feet often won't reach the temperatures needed for fast decomposition.
If you generate limited scraps, consider one of these approaches:
Use a worm bin instead (works at any scale)
Collect scraps in a covered bucket until you have enough to add a substantial layer to your pile
Partner with a neighbor to share a larger pile
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Bad smell (rotten or ammonia) | Too many greens, not enough air, or waterlogged pile | Add dry browns (shredded cardboard works fast), turn the pile to introduce air, and improve drainage or cover during rain. |
| Pile not breaking down | Too dry, too many browns, or materials are too large | Add water until the pile feels like a wrung-out sponge, mix in fresh greens, and chop or shred large pieces. |
| Pests (rats, raccoons, flies) | Food scraps exposed or easily accessible | Bury scraps under several inches of browns, avoid meat and dairy, and use a rodent-resistant bin if needed. |
| Fruit flies | Exposed fruit scraps near the surface | Bury fruit scraps deeply, keep a dry brown layer on top, and avoid leaving fresh scraps uncovered. |
| Too wet (slimy or matted) | Excess rain or too many greens | Add dry browns, turn to fluff and aerate, and cover the pile during heavy rain. |
Note on pests: Rats, raccoons, and flies are especially common in wooded areas of the San Lorenzo Valley and Bonny Doon. If critters are persistent, switch to a tumbler or enclosed bin with a secure lid.
Note on wet piles: This is common during our rainy season from November through March. Prevention (covering your pile) is easier than fixing a waterlogged mess.
Using Your Finished Compost
Finished compost is dark, crumbly, and smells earthy (like a forest floor, not like rotting food). You shouldn't be able to identify original ingredients.
In vegetable beds: Mix 2 to 3 inches of compost into the top 6 inches of soil when preparing new beds. Add 1 to 2 inches as a top dressing around existing plants each season.
For containers: Mix compost with potting soil at a ratio of about 1 part compost to 3 parts potting mix. Straight compost is too dense for containers.
As mulch: Spread a thin layer (1 inch) around plants as a mulch that will slowly release nutrients and protect soil. Keep it a few inches away from plant stems to prevent rot.
Compost tea: Steep a shovelful of compost in a bucket of water for a day or two, then use the liquid to water plants. It's a gentle, quick-acting fertilizer.
Local Resources
Supplies and equipment:
San Lorenzo Garden Center (Santa Cruz) carries bins, tumblers, and compost tools
Mountain Feed & Farm Supply (Ben Lomond) has composting supplies and bulk amendments
Ace Hardware locations throughout the county stock basic composters
Bulk compost (if you'd rather buy):
Aptos Landscape Supply sells bulk compost by the cubic yard
Central Home Supply (Santa Cruz) offers bulk soil amendments
Evergreen Landscape Supply (Watsonville) provides high-quality compost for larger projects
Education:
UC Master Gardeners of Monterey and Santa Cruz Counties offer composting workshops throughout the year
Santa Cruz County Public Works hosts periodic composting classes
City of Santa Cruz Home Composting Program offers workshops and resources for city residents
Frequently Asked Questions About Composting in Santa Cruz County
Can I compost year-round in Santa Cruz?
Yes, and our mild climate is actually ideal for year-round composting. Decomposition slows during cooler winter months but never stops completely the way it does in freezing climates. Expect faster results from April through October and slower progress from November through March. Worm bins work consistently year-round since they're typically in temperature-controlled spaces.
How long does it take to get finished compost?
In Santa Cruz County's climate, a well-managed hot compost pile can produce finished compost in 2 to 3 months during warm weather. A passive pile that you turn occasionally takes 6 to 12 months. Tumbler composters fall somewhere in between. Worm bins produce usable castings in about 3 to 4 months once established.
| Method | Time to finished compost | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Hot pile (turned frequently) | 2–3 months | Gardeners with space and time to manage compost actively |
| Passive pile (occasional turning) | 6–12 months | Low-maintenance approach for patient gardeners |
| Tumbler | 4–8 weeks | Faster results, better pest control, limited space |
| Worm bin (vermicomposting) | 3–4 months | Apartment dwellers or households composting kitchen scraps only |
What should I do with compost during fire season?
Keep compost piles away from structures and fences, especially if you're in a fire-prone area like Boulder Creek, Ben Lomond, or Bonny Doon. Wet compost poses minimal fire risk, but dry piles can smolder. Maintain moisture through summer and locate bins on bare ground rather than dry grass or leaves.
Do I need to add anything to help compost break down?
Not usually. The microbes that decompose organic matter are naturally present on the materials you add. Commercial "compost starters" are generally unnecessary. If your pile is slow to heat up, adding a nitrogen boost (fresh grass clippings, coffee grounds, or a thin layer of aged manure) can help.
Can I compost in my apartment?
Absolutely. Worm bins and bokashi systems both work well in apartments. A well-maintained worm bin fits under a kitchen sink or in a closet and has no odor. Bokashi buckets are even more compact. Many Santa Cruz apartment dwellers successfully compost this way.
Will composting attract rats?
It can if managed poorly. Rodent-resistant bins with small openings are important when composting food scraps. Use an enclosed tumbler or bin with a secure lid, bury food scraps under browns rather than leaving them on top, and avoid composting meat, dairy, or cooked foods in open piles.
What do I do with compost during the rainy season?
Cover your pile with a tarp or use a bin with a lid to prevent waterlogging. Our rainy season (typically November through March) can turn an uncovered pile into a soggy, anaerobic mess. Check moisture levels after storms and add dry browns if the pile becomes too wet.
Can I compost redwood or oak leaves?
Yes, but with some patience. Oak leaves break down relatively quickly (6 to 12 months in a pile). Redwood needles and debris decompose more slowly due to natural tannins and can take over a year. Shredding or chopping them speeds the process. These materials also make excellent mulch if you don't want to wait for full decomposition.
Free Composting Resources
Garden Troubleshooting Guide — Includes a section on soil problems that compost can help solve, plus tips for diagnosing nutrient deficiencies in your plants.
Beginner Garden Setup Checklist — Starting a new garden? This checklist covers soil preparation, including how much compost to add when building beds.
Seasonal Garden Tasks Checklist — Month-by-month guide that includes when to turn compost, add amendments, and apply finished compost to your garden.
Start Small and Build From There
You don't need to transform into a zero-waste household overnight. Start with a small bin, a countertop container for collecting scraps, and a commitment to learning as you go.
Even if your first batch turns into a soggy mess or takes twice as long as expected, you'll figure out what works for your space and habits. Every bit of food waste that becomes compost instead of landfill is a win, and your garden will thank you with healthier soil and stronger plants.
The real magic of composting isn't just the finished product. It's understanding how organic matter cycles through your garden, building soil that improves year after year. Once you start, you'll never look at a banana peel the same way again.
