Gardening in the San Lorenzo Valley: Sunny Ridges vs. Shaded Canyons
The San Lorenzo Valley isn't one growing zone - it's two completely different worlds separated by elevation, sun exposure, and tree canopy.
If you live on a sunny ridge above the tree line in Boulder Creek, you're gardening in a hot, dry, Mediterranean-like climate where tomatoes thrive through Thanksgiving. If you live in a shaded canyon in Felton under dense redwoods, you're gardening in a cool, moist microclimate where lettuce grows through summer and tomatoes struggle.
The temperature difference between these two areas - sometimes just a mile apart - can be 15-20 degrees on a summer day. That's the difference between success and failure for many crops.
The Two San Lorenzo Valley Microclimates
Sunny Ridges & Chaparral (Above Tree Line)
Where: Boulder Creek mountains, Ben Lomond sunny exposures, south-facing chaparral slopes, sandstone ridge areas, neighborhoods above dense tree canopy
Summer Temperatures: 90-100°F+ days, 40s-50s nights (30-degree swings!)
Winter Temperatures: 50s-60s days, 30s-40s nights
Sun Exposure: Full sun, 8+ hours daily
Vegetation: Manzanita, chaparral, oaks, madrone - open canopy
Soil: Well-drained, rocky, decomposed granite or clay
This is HOT, DRY, SUNNY gardening with a long season.
Under Redwoods & Shaded Canyons (Below Tree Line)
Where: Felton, Ben Lomond valleys, Boulder Creek canyons, dense redwood neighborhoods, north-facing slopes
Summer Temperatures: 75-85°F days (10-15°F cooler than sunny areas nearby)
Winter Temperatures: 40s-50s days, 30s-40s nights
Sun Exposure: Dappled to full shade, 2-6 hours direct sun
Vegetation: Dense redwood forest, ferns, understory plants
Soil: Acidic (pH 5.5-6.5), high organic matter, moist
This is COOL, MOIST, SHADED gardening with a shorter warm-season.
If You're on Sunny Ridges/Chaparral
What Thrives
You have one of the best growing climates in Santa Cruz County!
Tomatoes: ALL varieties, and your extended season is incredible
Early varieties planted in April produce through November
Late varieties planted in June/July produce into November (even Thanksgiving!)
Try: 'Sungold', 'Big Beef', 'Brandywine', 'Cherokee Purple', 'Early Girl'
Heat-loving crops:
Melons (cantaloupe, honeydew, watermelon - they LOVE your heat)
Eggplant (thrives in your conditions)
Hot peppers (jalapeño, serrano, habanero - excellent production)
Sweet peppers (bell peppers do great)
Okra (rare to see in Santa Cruz County, but you can grow it!)
The "Three Sisters":
Corn (grows tall and strong in your heat)
Beans (bush and pole varieties - succession plant through August)
Squash (summer and winter varieties thrive)
Mediterranean crops:
Basil (loves your heat)
Rosemary (thrives year-round)
Oregano, thyme, sage (all perennial and happy)
Lavender (perfect conditions)
Cool-season crops in winter:
Lettuce, arugula, spinach (fall through spring)
Kale, chard, collards (year-round possible with your sun)
Brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower planted in August for winter harvest)
Stone fruits:
Peaches, plums, apricots (check chill hours for variety - you get 400-600)
Persimmons (Asian and American varieties)
What Struggles
Spring lettuce and greens (bolt quickly in May/June heat)
Crops that need stable temperatures (your big swings can stress some plants)
Shallow-rooted crops without mulch and deep watering
Growing Strategies for Sunny Areas
Embrace your extended season:
Plant tomatoes in April, harvest through October/November
Succession plant fast-maturing tomatoes in June/July for fall harvest
Plant beans and corn through mid-July
Winter gardening is excellent - your sun keeps things growing
Manage summer heat:
Mulch heavily (4-6 inches) - critical for moisture retention
Deep watering 2-3 times per week minimum in summer
Drip irrigation is essential - don't rely on sprinklers
Afternoon shade for transplanted brassicas in July/August
Wind breaks if you're exposed (ridges can be windy)
Soil building:
Your rocky/clay soil needs organic matter
Add compost heavily every season
Use cover crops in winter (fava beans are excellent)
Mulch with wood chips between beds
Succession planting:
Beans every 2-3 weeks through August
Corn every 2-3 weeks through mid-July
Cool-season crops in fall (August/September) for winter harvest
Recommended Varieties for Sunny Areas
Tomatoes (you can grow ANY variety!):
'Sungold' - sweet cherry, produces until frost
'Big Beef' - large slicing, heat-tolerant
'Cherokee Purple' - heirloom, excellent flavor
'San Marzano' - paste tomato for sauce
'Early Girl' - fast, reliable
Peppers:
'California Wonder' - sweet bell
'Jimmy Nardello' - sweet Italian frying pepper
'Jalapeño' - classic hot
'Shishito' - mild, productive
Squash:
'Romanesco' zucchini - prolific
'Butternut' winter squash - stores well
'Delicata' - sweet, thin skin
If You're Under Redwoods/In Canyons
What Thrives
Shade-tolerant greens:
Lettuce (all varieties - you can grow it through summer!)
Arugula (loves your cool shade)
Spinach (happy in your conditions)
Chard (grows year-round)
Asian greens (bok choy, tatsoi, mizuna)
Mâche (corn salad - perfect for shade)
Herbs:
Parsley (biennial, loves shade)
Cilantro (won't bolt as quickly as sunny areas)
Chervil (loves cool shade)
Mint (thrives in moisture)
Cool-season crops:
Kale (year-round possible)
Broccoli (with 4-6 hours sun)
Cabbage (with adequate sun)
Peas (spring and fall)
Berries (if you have some sun):
Strawberries (tolerate part shade)
Blueberries (need acidic soil - you have it!)
Huckleberries (native understory berry)
Potential warm-season crops (IF you have 6+ hours sun in a clearing):
Tomatoes (slower growth, choose early varieties)
Beans (tolerate part shade reasonably well)
Summer squash (needs sun but can work)
What Struggles
Tomatoes (unless you have a sunny clearing with 6-8 hours direct sun)
Peppers (need heat and sun you don't have)
Melons (need heat and sun)
Corn (needs full sun)
Eggplant (needs heat)
Growing Strategies for Shaded Areas
Embrace the shade:
You have THE BEST conditions in the county for lettuce and greens
Summer lettuce is nearly impossible elsewhere but easy for you
Your extended cool-season growing is a huge advantage
Map your sun:
Find spots with 4-6 hours sun (can grow many crops)
Note morning sun vs. afternoon sun
Track seasonal sun changes (summer vs. winter angles)
Identify your sunniest clearing (6-8 hours = tomatoes possible)
Manage moisture:
Your soil stays moist longer - less watering needed
Watch for overwatering (better drainage than sunny areas)
Humidity can promote fungal issues - space plants for air flow
Slugs love your conditions - use beer traps or diatomaceous earth
Soil management:
Your soil is ACIDIC (pH 5.5-6.5) from redwood needles
Most vegetables prefer pH 6.0-7.0
Add lime or wood ash to raise pH
Test soil annually
Good news: excellent organic matter and structure
Maximize your advantages:
Plant cool-season crops when sunny areas can't (summer!)
Extend spring greens 4-6 weeks longer than sunny areas
Start fall crops earlier (August lettuce works great)
Your stable temps mean predictable growth
Recommended Varieties for Shaded Areas
Lettuce (your specialty!):
'Buttercrunch' - heat-resistant, shade-tolerant
'Red Sails' - loose-leaf, grows anywhere
'Tom Thumb' - compact, good for small spaces
'Merlot' - beautiful red, bolt-resistant
Greens:
'Red Russian' kale - cold-hardy, shade-tolerant
'Bright Lights' chard - colorful, vigorous
'Tatsoi' - Asian green, loves cool conditions
Herbs:
'Italian Flat Leaf' parsley - biennial
'Cilantro' - standard cilantro (won't bolt as fast)
'Spearmint' - loves moisture
If you have a sunny clearing (6+ hours):
'Early Girl' tomato - fast-maturing
'Stupice' tomato - cold-tolerant, early
'Oregon Spring' tomato - bred for cool summers
Frost Patterns in the SLV
Ridges: Frost rare, mostly frost-free
Valley bottoms: Frost likely, cold air sinks
Felton: Frost possible in valley areas
Boulder Creek valleys: Frost pockets exist
Ben Lomond: Variable - ridges frost-free, valleys frost-prone
Frost protection:
Row covers for tender crops
Plant frost-sensitive crops on slopes (cold air drains down)
Ridges have advantage (warmer at night due to air drainage)
Rainfall Patterns
All of SLV gets significant rain
More than coastal areas
Winter rains November-April
Summer bone dry
Shaded areas:
Retain moisture longer
Fog drip adds moisture
Less watering needed
Sunny ridges:
Dry out faster
Need consistent irrigation
No fog drip benefit
Wildlife in the SLV
Deer: Major issue everywhere in SLV
Fencing essential (8 feet minimum)
Deer-resistant plants help but nothing is deer-proof
Most problematic in redwood areas (they travel through forests)
Gophers: Everywhere
Wire baskets for valuable plants
Trapping programs
Raised beds with hardware cloth bottom
Making the Most of Your SLV Microclimate
If you're on sunny ridges:
You won the garden lottery. Take full advantage:
Grow heat-loving crops coastal gardeners envy
Succession plant for extended harvests
Plant tomatoes through early July
Enjoy fresh tomatoes at Thanksgiving
Grow cool-season crops all winter in full sun
If you're under redwoods:
You have unique advantages. Embrace them:
Be the only gardener with fresh lettuce in August
Extend cool-season harvest longer than anyone
Focus on what thrives (greens, herbs, berries)
If you have a sunny clearing, plant tomatoes there
Build soil with compost to counteract acidity
If you have BOTH:
You hit the jackpot. Plant strategically:
Tomatoes, peppers, squash in sunny spots
Lettuce, greens, herbs in shade
Cool-season crops in shade during summer
Warm-season crops in sun during summer
You can garden year-round in both zones
The Bottom Line
The San Lorenzo Valley's diversity is its strength. Whether you're gardening in hot chaparral or cool redwood forest, understanding your specific microclimate lets you grow what thrives instead of fighting what struggles.
Sunny ridge gardeners: embrace your heat and extended season. Shaded canyon gardeners: embrace your cool, stable conditions and extended cool-season growing.
Both can have abundant, productive gardens - just different ones.
