What to Plant in Santa Cruz & the Bay Area in November

November is when Santa Cruz County FINALLY experiences real fall weather. Rains usually start (if they haven't already), temperatures drop into a comfortable range, and the garden shifts into its cool-season rhythm. But in many warm microclimates, tomatoes might still be hanging on into Thanksgiving!

This is still a planting month - just a different kind than summer.

Why November Is Actually Fall

November is when the transition is complete:

  • Sunny mountain areas (Boulder Creek ridges, Ben Lomond chaparral): 60s-70s during the day, 40s at night, some frost possible in low spots

  • Under redwoods (Felton canyons, shaded areas): 50s-60s, stays cooler, more moisture

  • Inland valleys (Scotts Valley, Soquel): 60s during the day, 40s-50s at night

  • Coastal (Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz): 50s-60s, very stable, rarely below 45°F at night

  • Watsonville/Pajaro Valley: 60s, mild, latest frosts in the county

Rains typically start in November (though some years not until December). Once they do, you can mostly stop irrigating for winter.

Direct Seed These in November

Cold-Hardy Greens

  • Lettuce (choose cold-hardy varieties)

  • Arugula

  • Spinach

  • Mustard greens

  • Chard

  • Mizuna

  • Mâche (corn salad - thrives now!)

  • Claytonia (miner's lettuce)

Root Vegetables

  • Radishes (quick 30-day varieties)

Legumes

  • Peas (snap and snow peas for spring harvest)

  • Fava beans (early November - after this it's late)

Herbs

  • Cilantro

  • Parsley

Transplant These in November

  • Lettuce (if you started indoors or bought starts)

  • Onions (from sets for spring/summer harvest)

What to Harvest in November

The late fall harvest:

  • Last tomatoes (in warm microclimates - possibly through Thanksgiving!)

  • Late peppers (if you're lucky)

  • Fall greens (lettuce, arugula, spinach, chard)

  • Brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower, kale, Brussels sprouts)

  • Carrots (getting sweeter with cold)

  • Beets

  • Radishes

  • Leeks

  • Late apples and persimmons

  • Citrus (early lemons)

November Garden Tasks

  • Direct seed cold-hardy greens and peas in warm microclimates

  • Finish planting any remaining fava beans

  • Mulch garden beds heavily before winter rains

  • Pull spent summer crops - tomatoes, peppers, squash that are finally done

  • Clean up garden debris, fallen fruit, diseased plants

  • Prune fruit trees and berries (dormant season begins)

  • Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and berries (prime season starts!)

  • Check garlic for emergence

  • Reduce watering significantly once rains start

  • Add compost to beds for winter soil building

The Bare-Root Season Begins

November marks the beginning of bare-root planting season - one of the best investments you can make:

What to plant bare-root:

  • Fruit trees (apples, pears, stone fruits, figs, persimmons)

  • Berries (blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, bare-root strawberries)

  • Grapes

  • Roses

  • Artichokes (from bare-root crowns)

  • Rhubarb

Why bare-root in November?

  • Plants are fully dormant (minimal transplant shock)

  • Cool, wet weather helps roots establish

  • Less expensive than potted plants

  • Best selection early in season

  • They'll establish all winter and explode with growth in spring

Where to find bare-root plants:

  • Sierra Azul Nursery

  • San Lorenzo Garden Center

  • Scarborough Gardens

  • Love Apple Farms (specialty varieties)

  • Online suppliers (ship November-February)

Microclimate-Specific Advice

Coastal (Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz beaches, Live Oak): Mild and stable - 50s-60s, rarely freezing. You can plant almost everything on this list all November. Your temperatures don't swing wildly. Once rains start, you barely need to water all winter. Excellent conditions for cool-season crops.

San Lorenzo Valley & Scotts Valley - Sunny Ridges/Chaparral (Boulder Creek mountains above tree line, Ben Lomond sunny exposures, Scotts Valley hills): 60s-70s on sunny days, 40s at night, big swings. You can STILL plant cool-season crops all November thanks to sun and warmth. Your tomatoes might make it to Thanksgiving in a good year! November plantings will grow slowly but steadily. Watch for frost in low spots but ridges often stay warmer. You can essentially plant cool-season vegetables all winter in your microclimate.

San Lorenzo Valley & Scotts Valley - Under Redwoods (Felton canyons, Ben Lomond below tree line, Scotts Valley valleys): 50s-60s, cooler and stable. More moisture, less sun. Good for greens. November plantings will be slower than sunny areas. Your shade is now a disadvantage for growth speed, but crops that establish will be fine. Watch for slugs in wet conditions.

Inland Valleys (Soquel hills, inland Santa Cruz): 60s during day, 40s-50s at night. Good conditions for fall planting. Similar to coastal - once rains start, watering becomes minimal.

Watsonville/Pajaro Valley: 60s, mild, excellent conditions. Your warmest microclimate means you have the longest season. November plantings will do well. You might have tomatoes into Thanksgiving.

Common November Questions

Can I still plant lettuce and greens? Absolutely! November-planted greens will grow slowly through winter and be ready to harvest in late winter/spring. In warm sunny microclimates (Boulder Creek ridges, Watsonville), you can plant greens all winter long.

Is it too late for garlic? Yes, if you haven't planted by mid-November. Garlic needs vernalization (cold period) to form cloves, but also needs time to establish roots. October was the month. Try again next year.

Is it too late for fava beans? Early November? Fine. Late November? Pushing it. After Thanksgiving, skip it until next fall.

Should I stop watering? Once rains start, yes - for most crops. Check soil moisture before watering. Our clay soils can stay wet for weeks. Newly planted starts may need supplemental water between rains until established.

Can I still plant tomatoes? No! Even in the warmest microclimate, tomatoes planted in November won't have time to produce before winter slows them to a crawl.

The November Shift

November is when your garden truly becomes a cool-season garden:

Out:

  • Summer crops (finally done in most areas)

  • Heavy watering

  • Heat management

  • Pest pressure (mostly)

In:

  • Cool-season greens and brassicas

  • Reduced watering (nature does it)

  • Slower growth (but still growth!)

  • Bare-root perennial planting

Warm Microclimate Advantage

If you're gardening in warm sunny areas (Boulder Creek ridges, Ben Lomond chaparral, Watsonville), November is just the beginning of your cool-season planting window. You can essentially plant lettuce, greens, peas, and other cool-season crops ALL WINTER because:

  • Your sun exposure keeps soil temps warmer

  • Big temperature swings mean warm days for growth

  • Less frost risk on ridges than valleys

  • Excellent drainage (important in rain)

Your warm microclimate is a huge advantage for winter gardening.

Make November Count

November priorities:

  1. Plant bare-root perennials (fruit trees, berries) - this is THE season

  2. Direct seed greens for winter/spring harvest

  3. Clean up summer garden debris

  4. Mulch heavily before rains get serious

  5. Plan next year's garden

November is quieter than summer, but it's productive. Work with the cooler, wetter conditions - they're perfect for establishing perennials and growing greens.

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