What to Plant in Santa Cruz & the Bay Area in November
November is when Santa Cruz County FINALLY experiences real fall weather. Rains usually start (if they haven't already), temperatures drop into a comfortable range, and the garden shifts into its cool-season rhythm. But in many warm microclimates, tomatoes might still be hanging on into Thanksgiving!
This is still a planting month - just a different kind than summer.
Why November Is Actually Fall
November is when the transition is complete:
Sunny mountain areas (Boulder Creek ridges, Ben Lomond chaparral): 60s-70s during the day, 40s at night, some frost possible in low spots
Under redwoods (Felton canyons, shaded areas): 50s-60s, stays cooler, more moisture
Inland valleys (Scotts Valley, Soquel): 60s during the day, 40s-50s at night
Coastal (Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz): 50s-60s, very stable, rarely below 45°F at night
Watsonville/Pajaro Valley: 60s, mild, latest frosts in the county
Rains typically start in November (though some years not until December). Once they do, you can mostly stop irrigating for winter.
Direct Seed These in November
Cold-Hardy Greens
Lettuce (choose cold-hardy varieties)
Arugula
Spinach
Mustard greens
Chard
Mizuna
Mâche (corn salad - thrives now!)
Claytonia (miner's lettuce)
Root Vegetables
Radishes (quick 30-day varieties)
Legumes
Peas (snap and snow peas for spring harvest)
Fava beans (early November - after this it's late)
Herbs
Cilantro
Parsley
Transplant These in November
Lettuce (if you started indoors or bought starts)
Onions (from sets for spring/summer harvest)
What to Harvest in November
The late fall harvest is abundant:
Last tomatoes: In warm microclimates like Boulder Creek ridges and Watsonville, tomatoes may produce through Thanksgiving.
Late peppers: If you're lucky and had a warm fall, you might still be picking.
Fall greens: Lettuce, arugula, spinach, and chard planted earlier are ready now. Cold nights make greens sweeter.
Brassicas: Broccoli, cauliflower, kale, and Brussels sprouts planted in late summer are hitting their stride.
Carrots: Getting sweeter with cold. Leave them in the ground and harvest as needed.
Beets: Same as carrots. Cold improves their flavor.
Radishes: Quick crops planted in September and October are ready.
Leeks: Perfect for soups and stews as weather cools.
Late apples and persimmons: Tree fruits finish their season.
Citrus: Early lemons start ripening. Meyer lemons are often ready by late November.
November Garden Tasks
Direct seed cold-hardy greens and peas in warm microclimates where soil is still workable.
Finish planting any remaining fava beans. After Thanksgiving, it's too late until next fall.
Mulch garden beds heavily before winter rains intensify. This protects soil structure and adds organic matter as mulch breaks down.
Pull spent summer crops. Tomatoes, peppers, and squash that are finally done should come out. Add healthy material to compost; dispose of diseased plants.
Clean up garden debris, fallen fruit, and diseased plants. Good sanitation reduces pest and disease pressure next year.
Prune fruit trees and berries. Dormant season begins. Remove dead, damaged, and crossing branches.
Plant bare-root trees, shrubs, and berries. Prime season starts now and runs through February.
Check garlic for emergence. Plants should be sending up green shoots from October plantings.
Reduce watering significantly once rains start. Check soil moisture before watering.
Add compost to beds for winter soil building. Rains will work it in naturally.
The Bare-Root Season Begins
November marks the beginning of bare-root planting season, one of the best investments you can make in your garden.
What to Plant Bare-Root
Fruit trees: Apples, pears, stone fruits (peaches, plums, apricots, cherries), figs, and persimmons. Choose low-chill varieties suited to our mild winters.
Berries: Blueberries (they love our acidic soil), raspberries, blackberries, and bare-root strawberries.
Grapes: Both table and wine varieties establish well from bare-root.
Roses: November planting gives roses a full season to establish.
Perennial vegetables: Artichokes from bare-root crowns (perfect for Santa Cruz County), rhubarb, and asparagus.
Why Bare-Root in November?
Plants are fully dormant, which means minimal transplant shock. Cool, wet weather helps roots establish without stressing the plant. Bare-root plants cost less than potted plants. Selection is best early in the season before popular varieties sell out.
Plants installed now will establish roots all winter and explode with growth in spring.
Microclimate-Specific Advice for November
Coastal (Aptos, Capitola, Santa Cruz, Live Oak)
Mild and stable temperatures (50s to 60s, rarely freezing) mean you can plant almost everything on this list throughout November. Your temperatures don't swing wildly. Once rains start, you barely need to water all winter. Excellent conditions for cool-season crops. Direct seed greens, transplant starts, and begin bare-root planting.
San Lorenzo Valley Sunny Ridges (Boulder Creek, Ben Lomond Sunny Exposures)
Temperatures reach the 60s to 70s on sunny days with 40s at night, creating big daily swings. You can still plant cool-season crops throughout November thanks to sun and warmth. Your tomatoes might make it to Thanksgiving in a good year. November plantings will grow slowly but steadily.
Watch for frost in low spots, but ridges often stay warmer. You can essentially plant cool-season vegetables all winter in your microclimate. This is a huge advantage.
San Lorenzo Valley Shaded Areas (Felton, Ben Lomond Canyons)
Cooler and more stable at 50s to 60s with more moisture and less sun. Good conditions for greens, though November plantings will be slower than sunny areas. Your shade is now a disadvantage for growth speed, but crops that establish will be fine.
Watch for slugs in wet conditions. Hand-pick at night or use iron phosphate bait.
Inland Valleys (Scotts Valley, Soquel Hills)
Temperatures in the 60s during the day and 40s to 50s at night create good conditions for fall planting. Similar to coastal areas, once rains start, watering becomes minimal.
Watsonville and Pajaro Valley
The warmest microclimate in the county at 60s with mild conditions. November plantings will do well here. You have the longest growing season and might have tomatoes producing into Thanksgiving. Excellent for bare-root planting and cool-season crops.
The November Shift
November is when your garden truly transitions to cool-season mode.
What's Going Out
Summer crops are finally done in most areas. Heavy watering ends as rains begin. Heat management is no longer needed. Pest pressure drops significantly as insects go dormant.
What's Coming In
Cool-season greens and brassicas take center stage. Watering becomes minimal as nature takes over. Growth slows but continues through winter. Bare-root perennial planting becomes the priority.
Warm Microclimate Advantage
If you're gardening in warm sunny areas (Boulder Creek ridges, Ben Lomond chaparral, Watsonville), November is just the beginning of your cool-season planting window. You can essentially plant lettuce, greens, peas, and other cool-season crops all winter because:
Your sun exposure keeps soil temperatures warmer than shaded areas. Big daily temperature swings mean warm daytime hours for growth. Ridges have less frost risk than valleys where cold air settles. Excellent drainage handles winter rains well.
Your warm microclimate is a huge advantage for winter gardening. Don't waste it.
Local Resources for November Gardening
Nurseries for Bare-Root Plants:
Sierra Azul Nursery (2660 E. Lake Avenue, Watsonville) carries an excellent selection of bare-root fruit trees starting in November, including low-chill varieties suited to our climate.
San Lorenzo Garden Center (808 River Street, Santa Cruz) stocks bare-root trees, berries, and roses through the winter season.
Scarborough Gardens (33 El Pueblo Road, Scotts Valley) has good bare-root selection and knowledgeable staff.
Seeds and Supplies:
Renee's Garden Seeds (based in Felton) carries cold-hardy lettuce and green varieties suited to our climate.
Mountain Feed & Farm Supply (9550 Highway 9, Ben Lomond) stocks seeds, supplies, and bare-root plants.
Education:
UC Master Gardeners of Monterey Bay offer fall and winter workshops on topics like fruit tree selection and bare-root planting.
Frequently Asked Questions About November Gardening
Can I still plant lettuce and greens in November?
Absolutely. November-planted greens will grow slowly through winter and be ready to harvest in late winter or early spring. In warm sunny microclimates like Boulder Creek ridges and Watsonville, you can plant greens all winter long. Choose cold-hardy varieties like Winter Density lettuce, mâche, and arugula for best results.
Is it too late for garlic?
Yes, if you haven't planted by mid-November. Garlic needs vernalization (a cold period) to form cloves, but it also needs time to establish roots before deep winter. October was the month for garlic planting. Mark your calendar for next year and don't miss the window.
Is it too late for fava beans?
Early November is fine. Late November is pushing it. Fava beans need time to establish before winter really sets in. After Thanksgiving, skip it until next fall. The good news is that fava beans planted in early November will grow steadily through winter and produce heavily in spring.
Should I stop watering now?
Once rains start consistently, yes for most established crops. Check soil moisture before watering. Our clay soils can stay wet for weeks after a good rain. Newly planted starts and bare-root plants may need supplemental water between rains until their roots establish, but overall your watering duties drop dramatically.
Can I still plant tomatoes?
No. Even in the warmest microclimate, tomatoes planted in November won't have time to produce before winter slows them to a crawl. Enjoy your last harvests from existing plants and start planning for next spring. You can start tomato seeds indoors in late January or February.
What should I do with my tomato plants that are still producing?
Keep them going as long as they're producing. In warm microclimates, tomatoes can produce into Thanksgiving. Once frost threatens or plants stop setting fruit, pull them and add healthy material to compost. Don't compost plants with signs of disease.
What's the most important thing to plant in November?
Bare-root fruit trees. This is the beginning of bare-root season (November through February), and planting now gives trees maximum time to establish roots before spring growth. For a modest investment, you're planting trees that will produce for 20 to 50 years. Choose low-chill varieties suited to Santa Cruz County.
Why are my fall-planted greens growing so slowly?
Short days and cool temperatures slow plant growth significantly in November. This is normal. Your greens aren't failing; they're establishing roots and will pick up growth speed as days lengthen in late winter. Warm microclimate gardeners will see faster growth than those in shaded or coastal areas.
Free Gardening Resources
Seasonal Planting Calendar — Month-by-month planting guide for Santa Cruz County, including November's cool-season crops and bare-root window.
Know Your Microclimate Worksheet — Identify your specific growing conditions to make better planting decisions.
Seasonal Tasks Checklist — Track November tasks like bare-root planting, mulching, and garden cleanup.
Vegetables by Season — Quick reference for which vegetables to plant in fall and winter.
Embrace the Cool-Season Garden
November marks the real shift to cool-season gardening in Santa Cruz County. The frantic pace of summer is over. Growth slows, rains begin, and the garden enters a different rhythm.
This is a month for planting bare-root perennials that will produce for decades. For seeding greens that will feed you through winter. For cleaning up summer's remains and mulching beds for the season ahead. For appreciating the last tomatoes while planning next year's garden.
Work with November's cooler, wetter conditions. They're perfect for establishing perennials and growing the sweetest greens of the year.
